Widely dubbed as one of the coolest and bohemian barrios in Madrid you will find a balance of two distinct pictures in Lavapies. Translating to ‘wash feet’ – where the name came from, no one knows for certain, but the neighborhood has the highest population of immigrants in the city who may need a foot bath from many days of traveling to get here. On one side of this town you will see poverty and ethnic businesses that comes with these new arrivals from different lands, attracting what composes the intrigued polar opposite. A young and hip crowd moves in to experience these cultures, thus beginning to gentrify the area. During my visit to the capital I enjoyed seeing contrasts in this area and wandering the steep, narrow, and often deserted cobbled streets outside of my AIRBNB. Perhaps Pablo Picasso strolled the same route when he lived here in 1897, and he would be pleased to see that art prevails profusely throughout the streets. Discovering the hidden gems in this off the beaten path quarter is half the fun, but here are some spots to get you started…
+La Tabacalera de Lavapies
In its former life, the cavernous brick warehouse was a factory where women shredded and chopped fragrant tobacco leaves.
Today the dimly lit hallways of a building dating back to 1780 are doused in colorful creativity, open late into the night.
The independent gallery is free for all, to visit and also to use as an open street art canvas.
An outdoor space hosts a community garden and from time to time there are performances.
+Mercado de San Fernando
Blink and you might miss the nondescript entrance to this market which has been here since 1944.
If you want to cook at home, there are cheesemongers, butchers, and produce vendors to gather local goods.
Ethnic and traditional prepared food are among the thirty some odd storefronts, Mercadillo Lisboa was the perfect place to have brunch offering a gorgeous coffee and savory pincho de tortilla, for just 2,50 euro.
Tourists are a rarity and prices are extremely affordable, just don’t expect to find menus and service in English.
Even if you aren’t hungry, there are stores selling local wares including a book shop that sells literature by weight.
If you happen to be traveling on the third Sunday of the month, swing by the courtyard to enjoy a salsa dance party.
+Candela Flamenco
Without question, experiencing this intimate performance was my most cherished memory from Madrid. The dark room is tiny with rows of folding chairs nestled closely together, low ceilings, a small stage, and bar.
Tickets are just 15 euro and a drink is included with admission, a serious bargain compared to the expensive touristic counterparts you’d find in the center of the city.
Shows start at 11PM mainly on Fridays and Saturdays, generally they don’t begin right on time. Not a night owl myself I almost skipped the event for this reason, but that would have been tragic.
Four artists were performing the night of my show, a singer with a voice of gold, a seriously talented guitarist, and two of the most passionate dancers.
Watching flamenco is entirely entrancing and utterly unique, many people linger after it is over and dance until dawn.
+El Sur
A tiny tapas tavern covered in movie posters and packed with people stays open late. Service is friendly and you’ll find a menu in English. I came in looking for a small bite and ended up ordering a salad which was vibrant, fresh, and tasty.
Followed with a moussaka which was layered with flavor and seriously delicious.
Complimentary cordials came at the end of the meal, a sweet end to an extraordinary day.
Dark, intimate, and open late. Start with complimentary olives and choose from a great wine list. Service is very friendly and helpful, the menu is not too large offering tapas style salads, empanadas, toasts, pizzas, and raciones – which are larger plates. Empanadas are different than the usual design, elevated, the cheese and onion variety was one of the most delicious and complex bites with a gorgeous presentation.
Ham is a must in Spain, and the jamon iberico toast looked as striking as it tasted.
Located closed to the 
Something purely Madrid, this hole in the wall is known for their bocadillo de calamares, or – calamari sandwich. Exceedingly simple, freshly fried squid rings fill a dense crusty roll. 
Just a squeeze of lemon. For only 3 euros and a stones throw from Plaza Mayor, this institution is worth pressing through the crowds for.
I barely got my foot through the door of Mercado de San Miguel before I wanted out. Sure, aesthetically it was beautiful – but it was so full of tourists and lacked the market authenticity I was craving. Skip San Miguel and its overpriced food, head to this off the beaten path local market where you’ll actually find a place to sit along with wonderful food. Built in 1941 and filled with a variety of stalls from fresh produce, a butcher and fishmonger, bakery, and many restaurants to choose from.
The vendor Gastro Chigre has Asturian food offering a fine deal of 3 tapas for 12 euro.
A butternut squash salad, baked provolone stuffed with onions and mushrooms, and soupy rice with lentils and truffle oil made a fantastic trio, paired with some wine.
The Historic Restaurant: Botin Restaurant
The oldest continuously running restaurant in the world was founded in 1725, but the building dates back even further to 1590. Almost 300 years old, the original cast iron wood burning stove is still in use, along with authentic 18th century recipes.
Roast suckling pig, cochinillo, is the signature dish. Garlic soup with egg is another must try, with the most beautiful flavor and texture.
Mixed fish in casserole is a warming plate bountiful with fresh seafood and a lovely presentation.
You may have heard of this restaurant mentioned in Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises, who loved dining at the establishment. Famed Spanish artist Francisco de Goya worked as a waiter here while waiting for his acceptance to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Do make a reservation to avoid a long wait; the food is as delicious as the history.
For breakfast or late night dessert, it’s always the right time to have chocolate churros, and this classic spot is open 24 hours a day. 
Since 1894 people have been walking to this restaurant located in one of the most historic alleyways in the city, the interior is timeless with its white tiles and green wooden panels. The churros are light and crispy, freshly fried, and the dipping chocolate this thick and strong.
Actually hidden, there are no signs pointing you into the Monastery of Corpus Christi promising sweets. They say the recipes date back to Roman times, and you’ll never see the nuns who produce them – hidden away in El Convento de Corpus Christi established in the 17th century. To find this place is a bit of quest, and to be honest, half the fun. From the plaza curve down the elbow alley until you reach a wooden door with a buzzer marked: Venta de Dulces.
The sweets are indeed inside. Contacting the nuns who pray and bake through this system isn’t always,s cut and dry. We rang and waited. Nothing happened. The homeless woman who was sitting outside the church was our fairy godmother, she helped us by ringing another doorbell and ushered us inside.
In the convent it was just as confusing. We wandered until reaching a quiet sign, a list of cookies and a lazy susan.
Eight varieties and no understanding of Spanish, we were stumped. Somehow the order went through, we put our euros in, cookies rotated out, and subsequently our change was returned in the next rotation.
We ended up with mantecados de jerez, heavenly soft buttery biscuits that we devoured in the days that followed.
Hundreds of years later the site was sealed off after Nubia converted to Christianity and abandoned for ages. But how is it that an ancient Egyptian temple ends up in 
Construction of the Aswan High Dam would cause flooding of Lake Nasser, imminently destroying this historical monument. In prior years, Spain had helped saved the nearby Abu Simbel Temples and as a show of friendship, Egypt gifted this remarkable place of worship to the country in 1968. Brick by brick, the temple was dismantled and reassembled in Madrid, facing east to west.
Located high up on a hill in Parque de la Montaña with exquisite views, walking around the temple grounds is a pleasure.
A rose garden sits at the base of the hill, all around the park flora is lush, and if you are lucky you may spot some parrots in the vicinity.
During the Spanish Civil War the park was the location of the Montaña barracks, there are layers of history to this place.
Fun Fact: Egypt has offered temples to other countries, you can find them in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Museo Egizio in Turin, and the Rijksmuseum in Leiden.
Spain’s largest railway located in 
Approximately 7,000 plants of 260 species reach towards the roof, helping to keep the atmosphere fresh and tranquil. There are cafes and shops inside, along with interesting art to ponder.
Outside of the station, don’t miss a pair of supersized sculptures commissioned by Spain called Dia y Noches, by artist Antonio Lopez.
They were modeled after the face of his granddaughter and made of bronze between 2002 and 2008.
Destinations by rail include local hubs, high speed tracks to major cities like Barcelona and Sevilla, and international connecting to Marseilles, France. A special train for tourists called the Cervantes heads to Alcalá de Henares, the town where the celebrated author of Don Quixote was born.
It may be the official home of the Spanish Monarchy, but today it is mainly used for state services. King Alfonso XIII was the last monarch who lived in the palace year round, his reign ended in 1931.
History at the site of the palace dates back to medieval times, built on the site of a Moorish fortress of the 9th century. Later in the 16th century stood the Alcázar castle, which burned to the ground. The current castle was constructed between 1738-1755 and King Carlos III moved in during the year of 1764.
To explore the area, you can take a paid tour or walk around the grounds which are free. The Plaza de Oriente is a square adjacent to the palace and home of the Gothic kings. The limestone sculptures of these Viigoth and Reconquista rulers carved in the 18th century were meant to stand on the palace balustrade, but deemed too heavy.
You could get lost making your way through the labyrinth of hedges in the formal French designed Sabatini Gardens. This was once the site of the royal stable, but transformed in 1933 featuring a large rectangular reflection pond. Only the royal family and their guests were allowed in the gardens until as recent as 1978, when King Juan Carlos I decreed the area open to the public.
For a show of tradition, visit during the Changing of the Guard on Wednesdays, Sundays 11 am to 2 pm. Touring the palace is free Monday to Thursday from 4-6PM October to March and 6-8PM April to September for EU and Latin American citizens.
A variety of waterfowl makes the manmade Retiro Pond their home, including a few exotic Egyptian geese.
The crown jewel of the park is surely the Crystal Palace, designed by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco in 1887.
Its first use was to display flora discovered on the Philippine Islands, but today it houses a rotation of interesting art exhibits.
Beside the conservatory, the little lake is big on charm, equipped with a waterfall and grotto.
Among the ducks and geese that live here are a number of mystical black swans.
Cypress trees grow around the lake, with the unique characteristic to survive in water.
There are over 15,000 trees blanketing the grounds of the park and a stroll through the Forest of Remembrance, a monument to the 2004 Madrid attacks, is a breath of fresh air.
Every Sunday at noon from late May through October there are free concerts in the park.
Once named the Palace of Communication and opened in 1919, the architecture is a result of a contest won by Antonio Palacios and Joaquín Otamendi in 1904. The men created one of 
Head to CentroCentro where rotating art exhibits are always free and interesting.
During a 2019 visit, the hundred year anniversary of the building, I found a very contemporary collection.
Located within close walking distance from the 
The venue happens to be less visited, which is a nice change of pace compared to the nearby museums.
Other than art, you can find quite the view if you pay the small fee to take the ride up the tower to the mirador. On another floor produced a free view, that was tickled pink.
If you are looking to extend your time in the building, there is a restaurant on site.
From the twelfth to twentieth century building off of the former Spanish royal collection there are over 7,600 paintings and 1,000 sculptures.
The most famous masterpiece in the collection is Las Meninas by Velázquez, from 1656 during the Spanish Golden Age, coupled with various works from Francisco Goya. What grabbed my attention the most were the triptychs by Bosch. The Garden of Earthly Delights contrasts Eden and the last judgment, with incredible detail.
Enjoying a new artist, I also studied his painting the Hay Cart and sensing a theme, it depicts sinfulness as well.
Accompanying the painting is an old Dutch proverb: ‘The world is a haywain, and each man plucks from it what he can’.
+Museo Nacional del Prado is just one of the museums in the Golden Triangle of Art, a walking distance trio of renowned culture including 
Housed in an 18th century hospital, the museum has a collection over 22,400 works. The most legendary work of art is surely Guernica by Pablo Picasso, named for a Basque town that was bombed by the German Luftwaffe, who allied with Francoist forces in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War – over 2,000 people died. Picasso hoped the painting wouldn’t be shown in Spain until it became a democracy, so it was located in New York until 1981. You cannot photograph this sacred painting, but there are others in which you can snap a memory of.
During the same time period, Salvador Dalí was creating his own compilation of surrealist masterpieces, such as the famous work: The Great Masturbator.
Beware, contemplating the Endless Enigma might leave you with more questions than answers.
Or fancy one of the many portraits of his done in a multitude of styles, for a return to normality.
Other contemporary works by names that are not so well known are alluring, too.
Perpetually ticking, Object to be Destroyed was renamed and reworked to Object of Destruction when an artists lover left him.
To view inside a diorama, you must peek into the slat which shows a different view from each angle, a fun an interactive piece.
Don’t miss a trip to the balcony, day or night there are lovely views out upon the city.
Here you will find a trio of mystical beings sitting al fresco, as guardians of the night.
Good to know:
+Renia Sofia is just one of the museums in the Golden Triangle of Art, a walking distance trio of renowned culture including 
You’ll find that the attractions in Madrid are walkable, but there is a great transportation system in place. Visiting the Atocha Station can be a fun stop, regardless of whether you’re catching a train.
If you’re looking for a really ancient place to dine, Restaurante Botín is the oldest restaurant in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records, founded in 1725.
Wander the intriguing alleyways of La Tabacalera de Lavapies, an old tobacco plant turned into art project.
End your night with an unforgettable performance at Candela Flamenco, an intimate space.
During a three day visit I felt that I got a good vibe of what Madrid has to offer, though understanding that there are countless gems which would take years to discover. What could have been just an airport layover on my way to the