Cape Town is the heart of the South African coastline, a world-renowned metropolis with so much to offer. It has unforgettable trails filled with unique wildlife and flora, colorful architecture, and an exciting food scene.
There are so many reasons to visit the city, but you must do it carefully! All cities have the capacity to be dangerous, those in South Africa happen to be famous for it. Safety is always going to be a topic when discussing this country and it’s one that I weighed carefully before visiting, scouring online accounts of muggings and murders. After experiencing the city, these tips are the best way I can offer you to keep safe:
- Stay away from townships. An unfortunate fact of visiting South Africa is seeing a direct result of its cruel history – apartheid. Whether or not you know anything about it, driving around the country its effects are unavoidable. Right beside major cities, generally hidden below a hill in plain sight, townships are extremely impoverished neighborhoods that lack amenities where people of color were forced to live prior to the 1990s. They are shocking to see, clusters of makeshift shacks so close together filled with litter, often no electricity or paved roads, and tons of people walking, walking, walking. It is the worst poverty I have ever seen, and with poverty comes desperation, and then crime. Nyanga is touted as the most dangerous of all townships, just east of Cape Town located near the airport. Like an eye is drawn to a car crash, it’s hard to look away – but these are peoples lives. Leave them be, stay away, and be safe.
- Don’t walk alone, don’t walk at night, don’t walk in the city, period. This is coming from a person who loves to walk all over cities. If you’re renting a car like I did, drive from destination to destination – no matter how close. The one time I parked at one restaurant and decided to walk to a bakery a quarter of a mile away, I immediately felt it was a huge mistake – in the middle of the day. Of course I didn’t know where I was going in a new city, so I wanted to use GoogleMaps. You never want to have your phone out, so looking at the walking directions was difficult. Also, I didn’t know what route it was going to take me on – and I ended up walking through a street that was very uncomfortable. Extremely impoverished protesting refugees lined the sides of the street. Coincidentally, it was probably the worst block in the city. Learn from me, and every local who will tell you in Cape Town, don’t walk in the city. Just drive. Or Uber!
- Don’t flash your belongings, as you wouldn’t in any city. Looking around the city, no one has their phone out which is a huge difference from where I come from in New York – where everyone is walking with their phones in hand. Cape Town has a huge poverty rate, so wearing expensive jewelry or waving around electronics could make you a target.
- Be in after dark. Nothing good happens after dark! If you want to go to a restaurant later in the evening, uber directly there and back. If you want to have a nightly drink, why not get it from the grocery store and bring it back to your place.
My trip was blissfully uneventful in the safety department, and most travelers do not run into any problems. That’s why so many people keep visiting Cape Town – because they have a wonderful time and love what they’ve seen. Just be a bit more self aware than you would in any other city.
Good to know:
+Driving around Cape Town is just like any other major city. The roads are paved, there are many gas stations, just remember driving is on the left side of the road.
+Grocery stores are plentiful and have everything you are used to, SPAR was the chain that I used most frequently.
+Accommodations range from fancy hotels to hostels, I personally used AirBNB and was very comfortable with all of my various stays. You can use my referral code to get a discount on your first stay by clicking the link above.
Hiking in Cape Town
+Table Mountain defines the landscape of Cape Town, there are many trails to its summit. No matter which route you take to the top it won’t be easy (unless you hop on the cable car!), but the views, environment, and sense of accomplishment are .
+Lion’s Head is a seriously scenic shorter hiking option with some fun ropes to scramble up to its summit.
+Signal Mountain sits beside Lion’s Head and you can take an easy trail to reach it, or drive all the way to the viewpoint.
+Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden is a lovely and safe place to stroll through amazing flora, and also offers intense hiking trails including one which reaches the top of Table Mountain (paid parking).
+Tygerberg Nature Preserve is not a hike typically taken by tourists, but it felt safe and was a relaxing walk with many birds (small entrance fee).
Colorful Neighborhoods
+Bo-Kapp is the Malay quarter filled with colorfully painted houses like you’d see on a tropical island.
+The Muizenberg Beach Huts aren’t visible from the board, but a quick walk onto the sand will reveal a rainbow of merriment.
Foodie Finds
+Eastern Food Bazaar in the middle of downtown offers a regional cuisine called bunny chow, a hollowed out loaf of bread stuffed with delicious curry. Other Indian staples are available as well.
+Biesmiellah has an array of Cape Malay dishes that are popular in South Africa. Here you can find bobotie, salomies, koeksisters, and malva pudding. I had the best chicken curry and roti in the whole country at this restaurant located on the edge of Bo-Kapp.
Daytrip to the Cape Peninsula
+Boulders Beach has a captivating penguin colony where you can get up close and personal with these quirky birds in a gorgeous setting.
+The Cape of Good Hope isn’t the southernmost point of Africa (that’s Cape Agulhas), but it is steeped in wildlife and natural beauty perfect for a day of hiking and sightseeing.
Cape Town is a great jump off for visiting other cities like Hermanus, or taking an amazing coastal road trip called the Gardens Route.
A short and well maintained downhill path brings you to the beach and cave area, where you are left to your own device for exploration – best visited during low tide.
Walk to the left to discover the cave which has been a haven since Stone Age times, 85,000 years ago.
Heading in the opposite direction of the cave, there is a vast stretch of pristine white sand beach which stretches for miles. It is perfect for hiking or lounging, but dangerous for swimming.
If visiting when the tide is out, you never know just what you’ll find in the tide pools,
like this vibrant purple sea urchin – briefly and daily exposed by the pull of the moon.
Or who will be hunting in them – like this endangered African black oystercatcher.
The best thing about this preserve other than the scenery was the fact that no one else was there.
Admission fee or Wildcard required.
Whether you’re looking for a walk in a garden or a true mountainous hike, you can find a diverse array of paths in this free preserve.
To start with the rambling paths of the garden, you will find a rainbow of magnificent blossoms.
Fun Fact: There are more than 30 species of protea flowers in the preserve, including the King Protea which is the national flower of South Africa.
Proteus was the Greek god who could change his form “to those of beasts who will mock your grasp.”
Nestled into the garden there were numerous birds and some tortoises too!
Continuing on to any of the 37 miles worth of trails in the reserve, you can discover more protea in their natural habitat.
Finding a king protea was especially exciting, it happens to be my favorite flower.
I’ll be covering the section from New Harbour (where you can park in a quiet lot on Stil Street) to Gearings Point in the heart of town (where you can alternately park in a popular lot) which is just about 4 miles round trip.
There are long stretches of trail connected by a few quiet patches of city street on this part of the route.
Sections of trail surface are sometimes paved or boardwalked, and the route is easy with light hills.
You will see informational boards about the species and time of year where they can be spotted, though we were unable to spot any on our November walk.
Whales aren’t the only wildlife you can see, there are plenty of birds and dassies to get excited about as well.
Just taking in the captivating views makes the walk entirely worthwhile, with a wonderful peppering of wildflowers.
At Gearings Point there are a few sculptures that add some flavor to the landscape, one is accompanied by a poem:
‘The world’s decay where the wind’s hands have passed, And my head, out with love, at rest In my hands, and my hands, and my hands full of dust.’
Continuing on the trail can become narrow or rocky, and there are rolling hills – but the views evolve with each bend you reach.
+Agulhas National Park is the southernmost tip of the African continent, an exciting place to explore. Starting off from the lighthouse (which you can walk up for a nominal fee) take the boardwalk down towards the ocean.
It’s a great walk to admire the turquoise water and rocks covered in orange lichen.
There are a few things to seek out here, first you will run into the Southernmost Tip Monument, a map of Africa laid out on the ground.
Next, you will want to find the stone marker at the actual tip where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet.
This is a must stop photo-op spot and it’s usually busy, so make friends with other tourists to snap your picture.
Continue walking out along the coast admiring the scenery, looking at birds and for whales.
Blooming succulents were another welcomed splash of color to the environment.
Keep heading west (with the ocean on your left) along the coast and approximately a mile and half from the lighthouse you will find the Meisho Maru Ship Wreck.
The cape is famously dangerous to sailors, storms and rogue waves have taken many ships to their watery grave. There is nothing between you and Antarctica as you gaze at this rusted wreck.
On the other hand, you can drive on the eastern head and find numerous little parks to explore the view. 
East Head View Point (22 Glen View Rd, The Heads, Knysna, 6571, South Africa) has a short walking trail leading to dazzling vistas from above.
There is also an interesting sculpture adding to the atmosphere.
If you plan on dining in the area seek out the Knysna Oyster, which the town is famous for.
A kingfisher was trapped inside for god knows how long – so happy we were able to set it free, and it obliged us with some pictures.
That wasn’t it for the excitement, there were some flamingos adding a splash of color to the scene too.
The blind has some identification boards to help with your sightings. After the birding, continue on to the 3.7 mile loop.
It ascends initially with some nice lake views and has some rolling hills, the track can be sandy and rutted due to its namesake resident digging holes.
We didn’t see any molerats, but an elusive Knysna loerie flew by before I could snag a picture of it. Something that was more my speed with the camera this day was a shy tortoise spotting.
+The Woodville Big Tree is an 800 year old a yellowwood towering over 100 feet tall and almost 40 feet in circumference.
It’s a behemoth just a few steps away from the parking lot, an easy quick activity for those short on time.
Additionally, there is a lovely hike around the forest which was entirely empty during my visit. A scattering of informative plaques detail the flora with some interesting facts.
Wildlife in the forest was active as the evening approached, frogs were croaking in puddles,
and a female boomslang snake slithered in front of us – though I was too surprised to snap a picture of her beautiful bright green belly this is what they look like:
but if they have their carrot cake you must try a slice, which is truly out of this world!
The presentation is pleasant and so is the shady outdoor seating area beside the quaint playground.
Breakfast and lunch are available at the café as well, get there earlier though because closing times vary between 4-5:30 daily.
A lush canopy of trees keeps the path shady, but the sun will break through when you reach the river.
An element of silly adventure ensues, where you pull yourself across the way on a makeshift pontoon – it so much fun and makes the hike very memorable!
Upon making it across, the dirt trail turns into an elaborate boardwalk that surprisingly stretches almost the entire rest of the trail.
The end of the trail is marked by a charming little waterfall, and its surrounding pools make for swimming holes on a hot day.
Admission fee or Wildcard required.
but others instead might see the head of a crocodile, or something else completely – perhaps nothing at all but a striking river bend.
On the opposite side of the road, just further down the street there is a short ladder over a fence where visitors can take in an additional view of the coast.
+Nature’s Valley Rest Camp is another parcel of the Tsitsikamma section in Gardens Route National Park. See how things can get a bit confusing?
Take the winding road down descending the valley. When I visited, the main entrance to the rest camp was closed, so I took the dirt road through the woods of the campsite to find the main desk and show them my Wildcard, they didn’t seem to care about collecting fees or handing out maps – but I was able to grab one.
Maps are not found online so planning is a bit difficult, and everything surrounding the Kalanderloof Trail was a bit aloof, including where to begin! The hike is a 2.7 mile loop and it is on the opposite side of the street from the rest camp entrance.
It is not entirely marked, but not the worst either (and worth the mild confusion). There were two spots where I was confused, one around the summit where a few forks went unmarked, and towards the end of the trail where there were some ambiguous turnoffs and I ended up taking the last quarter mile on the quiet road back to the parking lot. However, if you endeavor on this trail you will be rewarded. Not many people do, and we had it all to ourselves. The trail begins through the forest and climbing up to an exposed mountaintop where the views of the Groot River and Indian Ocean are astounding.
The wildflowers were unique and plentiful, adding a pop of color against the dense blues and greens.
I was extremely excited to see my first instance of my favorite flower in the wild – the exquisite protea.
Fun Fact: the protea is the national flower of South Africa. Descending steeply back down into the woods you will pass remarkable Yellowwood trees which must be hundreds of years old.
I certainly think the payoff outweighs the confusion in this case.
Start by walking out onto the expansive beach, which would be great for an entire day of fun under the right conditions.
It was a bit windy and cool on this day making it sparsely populated, but nonetheless beautiful for explore the rocky coastline.
Walk west, or when looking at the ocean to the right, and it won’t be long until a sign beckons you into the maritime forest.
A short set of switchbacks climbs through the shade of the woods up to a truly magnificent vista of a perfect crescent cove!
You can head back the way you came, or keep onward and upward. A look at the map above shows the Salt River Route connects to other trails such as the Kalanderkloof for a longer hike. There are no fees from this trailhead.
Upon leaving the boardwalk and hitting the sand, the beach was windy, really blowing hard on this day – but the walk was well worth it. Stop at the lagoon along the way if you are a birder.
In the parking lot one of the signs gave information about African Black Oystercatchers, a threatened and endemic species. There were many of them feeding along the shore of the lake, make sure to watch from a distance as not to disturb them.
Continuing on the shore becomes even rockier, and I found a mini arch due to the route I chose – it was a lucky spy because I could have easily walked around any other boulder.
Finally, the main event – Cathedral Arch Rock appeared – unavoidable in its massive splendor.
After admiring, continue along the beach further if you please or head back the way you came. Important: You do need to be aware of the tides on this walk, because the arch will be unreachable if they are high. Go at low tide.
The full loop around the peninsula is just under seven miles roundtrip, though two shorter loops are possible if you only have time for a taste (hiking to the Gap is just over a mile & to Witsand dune is 2.4 miles). Initially the hike is level with stunning coastal views that stretch into Plett, and even some relaxing boardwalk.
On the north side of the island the wind was extremely strong, some hills and rougher terrain materialize as the trail continues, and most noticeably the scent of cape fur seals fills the air long before you spot them in the sea.
Other wildlife sightings included a lizard that would have been well camouflaged except for its pretty blue markings,
and in addition a pair of amorous locust caught in the act.
Upon reaching the point, the wind ramped up so hard I truly thought I would be blown away! Keeping a low center of gravity was helpful, using a camera wasn’t even a possibility, but it was an experience I’ll never forget even without a picture. Rounding to the south side of the peninsula, the scenery was even more astounding.
Some ropes are in place to help with a narrow descent, now closer to the coastline you are up close and personal with the spraying waves and vibrant orange lichen that paints the sandstone boulders.
Here you may spot a dassie or two, or three – also known as the rock hyrax and aptly situated.
Further ahead is an exceptional sight, an island connected to the mainland through a spit – positively glistening in the sunlight.
When you reach it the dunes are even taller than imagined, and if it weren’t so windy it’d be a lovely beach to lay on. Exploring the island is an option (but after a long day of hiking, we decided to push on).
From this point it is an uphill climb to the end of the hike, with stairs and still great views behind you – never a dull moment on this picturesque adventure. Admission fee or Wildcard required.
+The Mouth Trail is 1.25 miles roundtrip and starts at the end of the parks eastern most road. This is an easier trail with some minimal elevation gain. Right from the lot you will have gorgeous coastal views and wildlife sightings.
Dassies (also known as hyraxes) are a strange and adorable creature that are extremely prevalent in the area.
They don’t regulate temperature well, so you can often see them huddling in adorable clusters.
Fun fact: the dassies closest living relative is the elephant! Setting off on the trail across a small swimming beach and onto a boardwalk, mountainous coastal views abound.
A thrilling element of this trail are the bouncy suspension bridges that cross the river.
From there is a rocky cove that was littered with whale bones and baleen.
Climb up to the viewpoint, and take the loop back to where you started.
It was such a pleasure to spot the various species of colorful wildflowers along the trail.
Locust were dispersed among the plants, slowly going about their day.
Soon the greenery switches to a rocky shore with a new bright colors: orange lichen contrasts against the bright blue of the Indian Ocean.
Rugged coastal views dominate for the remainder of the hike, a truly stunning show.
Take some time to explore a cave along the way, and keep climbing. Gaining a bit of elevation some tide pools begin to appear.
If you examine them, you might discover some exciting life happening, from tadpole to frog.
It is the perfect place for a picnic, or a dip in the pool beneath the falls on a warm day. You can create a loop back through the woods, or return the way you came.
Wildlife is abundant and though I was lucky enough to see the striking Knysna Loerie (namesake of the trail), I was unable to snap a picture of the elusive bird.
A small and lovely waterfall sits in the middle of the woods breaking up the dense trees.
Note: Admission fee or Wildcard required to enter Storms River Mouth Restcamp.
The pesto grilled cheese was delicious, obvious farm fresh ingredients were shining through. Don’t miss out on the chocolate cake which was something to remember, absolutely decadent!
Eating under the canopy in the company of the sweetest farm cats was so relaxing after a busy day of hiking and sightseeing.
Of course on a road trip you need a lot of snacks, we didn’t have to hit the grocery store this night because the shop had everything you could want – and more! 
Classic South African bites such as biltong and milk tarts, plus you can find homemade quiches or yogurt for breakfast the next morning.
Day 2: 
Day 6: 
My guide is primarily driven for nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts, but there are other ways to enjoy the Gardens Route which is a haven for foodies (ex Knsyna oysters, South Africa’s best cheesecake) and adrenaline seekers (ex one of the worlds highest bungee jumps, great white shark cage diving), as well.
Make sure to have a full tank of gas before your trip, there are no fuel services in the park.
A daily conservation fee is required to enter the park, or if you purchased a Wildcard that covers admission.
The big five and all the species you could desire reside within the park and some snoozing lions were some of the most exciting animals to come across.
Seeing hyenas and jackals duke it out for a snack on an elephant carcass was quite a sight.
Baby mongoose were just about the cutest thing, very transfixed on the car as we passed by.
Stately kudu emerged from the thick brush and grazed along the road, unbothered by a passing vehicle.
We didn’t see hartebeest at Kruger, so finding them plentiful in at Addo was a real treat.
Zebra are always dazzling to witness, we were even lucky enough to see some with foals.
Birding opportunities are abundant whether at the watering holes, or just in the brush while driving about.
You will also find a small museum to learn more about the wildlife and the culture of the region.
Having experienced both Kruger and Addo, it was interesting to see the differences of species and environments – both were very rewarding.
Where to next?
Just a few steps away from the parking lot there are two viewpoints leading to stunning geological formation, on the left you have the sundial and to the right the three rondavels, which look like the traditional grass huts they were named for. 
Bathroom and craft vendors available.
+Bourke’s Luck Potholes
A well maintained walking path leads visitors over bridges to see spectacular views.
The calm waters above the falls are great for tidepooling, there are many fish and tadpoles.
Vibrant dragonflies rest calmly beside the pools waiting for opportunity to arise.
Another great feature to this site is the little museum where you can learn about the geology and nature of the region: At the confluence of the Treur and Blyde Rivers, rapids caused narrow vertical fissures in the quartzite. The swirling force of the current and waterborne stones grind into the softer rock layers to form the unique potholes. 
Great for quick viewing, but if low on time or funds, skip this in lieu of more interactive opportunity.
It won’t take too long to enjoy the entirety of this place, but it is a memorable stop on the route.
+The Pinnacle Rock
+Mac Mac Falls
It was the only place that felt hawky, but after passing through that there is a nice little walk and its terminus is the tall and slender picturesque waterfall.
+Bridal Veil Falls
This site offered the most length of hiking trail, which was phenomenal to truly get out into nature. Walking to the waterfall is slightly uphill and reaching it doesn’t take too long. It has a unique combination of hues of pink rock wall, green vegetation, and a black rock lined pool.
Right before reaching the falls there is an additional trail marked simply with a bird. The ‘bird’ trail goes on for god knows how long, because there is no map – but it is well marked and I hiked along it happily for an hour with no sign of ending.
In this time, there were additional small waterfalls and some lovely views.
This is not an easy trail it is steep and sometimes precarious, but I didn’t find anyone else along it which made it quite peaceful.
Getting there:
+You can take a quick flight to one of the multiple airports near the park, or even Skukuza Airport right within the park boundaries, which is where I chose to land.
Where to stay:
Choosing which camps to stay at can take a bit of planning. Some people prefer to pick one camp to stay at the entire time, trying different routes fanning out from their base. Others prefer to hop around different camps to see more of the park. I chose the latter option and experienced Skukuza, Lower Sabie, and Satara Main Camps. For me, the camp was just a place to shop for groceries, eat my dinner, and get some rest so personally it wasn’t important what amenities were available. People tend to love Lower Sabie because of its location on a river, a great place to watch wildlife. I stayed three nights in Kruger which was perfectly satisfying, but I could envision an entire trip dedicated to the park alone. Pro tip: Book as far in advance as possible because space is limited.
If you stay outside the park there are many hotels, AIRBNBs (if you don’t already have an account, you can use my 
Kruger is roughly the size of Israel or New Jersey for reference, so if you are self driving it is important to be aware of the distances between camps and be back to your accommodation before the gates close and all visitors must be off the roads: 
Always keep an eye on your fuel and understand that gas stations are located only at main rest camps only. I didn’t chose to take any guided safari cars, but you could easily mix doing both or skip driving all together. One benefit of a guided safari is that you can choose tours outside of gate hours, so you can see the park at night.
What to eat:
Depending on your type of accommodation you may have your own kitchen, or in the camp you can always use the shared kitchen and braais (bbqs). Grocery stores offer basic needs such as meat to braai, sandwiches, sometimes salads, and canned goods. Pro tip: Bring or purchase instant coffee as there are electric kettles, but no coffee makers.
+Keep your windows closed, animals can literally rip you from your vehicle and kill you.
+Respect elephants and give them plenty of room, never go between a mother and its calf. If you notice signs of aggression from an elephant slowly back up, they can flip your car.
+Don’t speed, animals blend into their habitat and can come out of what seems like nowhere. It would be a tragedy to kill the wildlife, but large animals like elephants and giraffes can also kill you in a crash.
+Kruger is in a Malaria zone. I barely saw any mosquitoes (visiting outside of rainy season) and was never bit by one while in the park. I did take malaria medication as a precaution, but in hindsight I didn’t need it. However, if I didn’t take it personally I would have been nervous so it was worth the money to get a prescription from my doctor for peace of mind, especially seeing as I had no adverse side effects from the medication.
General Tips:
+Since you cannot get out of your car anywhere, plan to use restrooms as often as you see them at rest camps and picnic sites.
+The only ATM is at Skukuza Main Camp and it wasn’t working when we visited. Luckily you can get cash back from the rest camp stores when using your credit card.
+A pair of binoculars will really enhance your experience.
+Waking up and getting out early is key because animals are most active at dawn and dusk. Many people will take a break midday at a rest camp or picnic site when the heat is strongest, because animals tend to be more scarce. Personally, I kept driving through the midday heat and saw some incredible sites – but continuous driving was tiring.
+You never know what you’re going to see on the road, sightings even in the same place change every day. One route I would recommend is the S100 gravel road, a particularly lauded stretch which I traveled on twice and each time it was spectacular.
Places to get out of the car:
+The Lake Panic bird hide was very active early in the morning, the African pygmy kingfisher was a sight this birder will never forget.
+Sweni bird hide is more remote, but offered what I envisioned of an African watering hole complete with crocodiles and elephants.
+Nkhulu Picnic Site has lovely riverside views, it’s one of the nicest places to have your lunch al fresco in the park.
+Tshokwane Picnic Site doesn’t have the world’s greatest views, but it does have a restaurant which whips up excellent pies. I loved the spinach and feta while my husband devoured his kudu pie.
+Nkumbe View Site is a stunning place to pull off and take in the scenery.
+Of course you can walk around the picnic sites and rest camps, and use your swimming pool.
+Mating giraffes on the main road between Satara and Olifants Rest Camps
+Many roller birds flitted quickly, but this one posed for a photograph
+The southernmost baobab tree
+Elephants shading themselves beneath a tree at midday
+Active watering holes
+Olifants Bridge river view allotted a pack of painted dogs
