El Tanquito in Cardon Mountain Natural Monument Fuerteventura

The legend of the heroic giant Mahan, standing 22 feet tall and in his mouth 64 teeth, dates back to pre-Hispanic times. He died fighting the Norman conquerors and was buried up on Cardon Mountain Natural Monument in Fuerteventura.

The indigenous people believed that mountains were a link between sky and heaven and earth, Montaña Cardón rises 2,263 feet and looks like it has been cut with a knife, the effects of erosion over millions of years. Up the mountain there is a neatly carved trail leading to a hermitage cave chapel, El Tanquito.To get to the church the hike is 2.5 miles, so roundtrip there will be a 5 mile trek up the side of the mountain. Trailhead parking is on the road FV-618 near the greenhouses, you can use the GoogleMaps location: Parking Montana Cardon, 35628, Las Palmas, Spain.

For the most part, you will find that the path is very well maintained up to the church.

So much so that on the first Sunday of May till this day pilgrims of Cardon take the trail up to the church singing and dancing, with food and images of the Virgen del Tanquito! But after a point where there is a bulge in the trail with a large stake, it begins to narrow, steepen, and become more slippery. However, the view opens up on the northern side of the mountain and stretch all the way out to the Jandia Peninsula, to Cofete Beach.

When you reach the gate, be sure to close it behind you so that goats do not come into the area, you are almost to the church.

An endangered female Canary Islands stonechat, found solely on the island of Fuerteventura, was perched on the fence.

Now, the trail levels out and a fence defends from the steep precipitous right beside you.

It is strange that I was so shocked to see this pool of water, but with the element so scarce I realized that it was the first time I had seen a natural spring during my time in the desert islands.

With this knowledge, you can see why this area is such a sacred place. A small rock façade and a simple door, with just a rock at its base to lock it, beckon your for a closer look.

Inside a tiny place of worship is dug into the side of the mountain, adorned with figures, candles, and other offerings of faith.

So simple and unexpected in this natural setting, with no one around along the whole hike – yet candles were mysteriously aflame. A note asks hikers to water the plants and leave the date they were there! Beside the chapel, there is a wet cave boring deeper into the mountainside.

Additionally there is an oven, perhaps for the pilgrims to barbecue with after their hike.

From here, it is possible to continue to the top of the mountain, though the trail looks extremely eroded – and so steep to a point that I was even uncomfortable with. Let me know how it is if you journey on.

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Astronomical Viewpoint Sicasumbre in Fuerteventura

Deep in the desert of Fuerteventura there is a star reserve with such scarce light pollution that it attracts astronomers from all over the world. The mountainous drive on FV-605 into Pájara twists and turns to almost 1,000 feet above sea level, whether you are visiting day or night, the Astronomical Viewpoint Sicasumbre is sure to take your breath away.

When you arrive, parking is on the opposite side of the street from the trail. It is no more than a quarter of a mile up the hill, and half way there is a shaded bench.

At the top is a panoramic point with exceptional views over the volcanic landscape, from the Jandia Peninsula to the protected area of Montana Cardon.

In the outdoor astronomical observatory you will find tools such as a vertical clock and sundial.

There is much information to read about the surrounding mountains during the day, and constellations at night. Virgo, Bootes and Corvus can be seen here, in what is some of the best stargazing on the continent of Europe.

Good to know:

+Bring a jacket, it can be very windy in this area

+At times the observatory can be crowded because buses stop here

+There are additional walking trails to extend your time in the area

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My Favorite Restaurant in Fuerteventura: El Bar de Marko

The unsuspecting location: a supermarket strip mall in Costa Calma hides a tapas bar filled with locals.

El Bar de Marko is a diamond in the rough that produced my favorite meal in Fuerteventura.

Find the restaurant tucked away on the ground floor on the corner all the way to the right.

Choose indoor or outdoor seating, the staff is eager to please and explain all of the menu items, helping to make sure you order the right amount of food. The atmosphere is relaxed. A few tables, a bar, and the place would begin to fill up over the course of the evening.

Beer is served in a chilled glass. Splitting five tapas with a dessert was just the right amount of food for two hungry individuals. Do not miss out on goat cheese while in Fuerteventura. The fried wheels topped with jam were exquisitely bold and creamy, flawlessly balanced capped with sweetness – molding me into a person who truly appreciates this variety of cheese for the first time.

A fun interactive dish, the fish pies were a puzzle where each component was a fresh and essential piece.

Tasting the polla a la moni I was blown away with the most tender chicken with flavor so deep and nostalgic, drawing me back to one of my favorite childhood dishes that my mother would make.

Mixing sweet and savory, the fried eggplant with palm honey was crisp and dreamy.

My husband raved about the apple meatballs stuffed with blue cheese and caramelized onions so much – though I don’t eat red meat he had me taste the sauce, an utterly impeccable and unique combination.

Dessert came in a jar, a butterscotch flavor with a pudding consistency, topped with what tasted like freeze dried honeycombs.

A perfect ending to a delicious meal. Do not judge a book by its cover or you will miss out on the best food the island has to offer.

Good to know:

+There is a pinball machine in the arcade next door

+You will find free parking down on street

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The Route of the Mills in Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

When I think of Fuerteventura, I feel the wind. I imagine the hills, and I see the windmills that sit on top of them.

The force of the trade winds that course through the archipelago shaped the islands and its people in so many ways. By the 18th century windmills would be the dominating technology, reducing the need for humans to grind grains like precious gofio with a mortar and pestle. The Route of the Mills or Ruta de los Molinos has become a symbolic image of the island. Driving through the countryside, walking by the beach, even right in town – you will see windmills wherever you go.

In the Canary Islands, windmills are differentiated by gender. Molinas are female, which are more square and have one story – while Molinos are male, more rounded with two stories.

+There are two windmills located right in the tourist hub of Corralejo, perfect for those who do not have a car. Molina de Juan Morera is located right across the street from a supermarket!

Just a block away in a lovely square, Molino Del Dulcero is one of the oldest mills still standing on the island.

+Molinos de Villaverde reside nestled between the idyllic hills of La Oliva. There are two windmills within a close walking distance.

+Molinos Interpretation Center speaks to the importance of gofio, which saved Fuerteventurans during famine.

+Molino de Antigua shares a space with a cactus garden and cheese museum, the trio can make a fun afternoon – paid admission.

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Exploring the Jandia Peninsula in Fuerteventura

The southwestern tip of Fuerteventura Island is referred to as the Jandia Peninsula, it was an entirely separate island many years ago. In the region there is a town called Morro Jable, where you can find the port that ferries passengers to Gran Canaria, and where many resorts are located. Some people use the names Morro Jable and Jandia exchangeable, but now you know the difference between the two. Whether you are staying in the area or day tripping, there is much to see and do.

+Playa del Matorral is the beach in town, sometimes referred to as Playa de Morro Jable or Jandía Beach in this place of many synonyms. The vast beach stretches over 2½ miles of white sand and turquoise waters, and it’s almost 200 feet wide. As a typically breezy area, this beach attracts many surfers and wind surfers. As with many beaches in the Canaries, nudists are generally present right beside people who are clothed. There is plenty of free beach parking across the street.

+A lengthy seaside promenade is popular with joggers, walkers, and cyclists in town. It is sporadically dotted with sculptures, to art lovers delight.

You will find parks for children to play in and trees with shade to rest in, which happened to be filled with monk parakeets.

It is endearing to watch these birds chatter and show their loving personalities towards one another.


Many restaurants and bars line the road across the street from the beach.

+The Morro Jable Lighthouse is an active beacon which was built in 1991. It is the tallest in the Canary Islands standing over 193 feet tall.

Nearby is a whale skeleton, these aquatic mammals can be sighted in the Canaries all year long frequently seen off of Fuerteventura.

The skeleton is from a male sperm whale who was came ashore dead due to natural causes The whale was 47.5 feet long weighing over 18 tons, it is placed here for environmental awareness.

+Visit with the turtles at the Turtle Nursery, free to enter and generally open weekdays 10-1. The facility helps to ensure the population of loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) that live in the Canary waters. Their population has declined in recent years, the local government is working to stabilize it. Turtles lay their eggs at Cofete Beach and scientists transport them to the nursery where they are cared for until they are of substantial size and have a greater chance to survive, then they are released into the local waters.

+Saladar de Jandia is the largest salt marsh in the Canary Islands. The wetlands are home to halophytic vegetation which can withstand high salinity that occur during floods at high tide, especially common at fall and spring equinoxes. This is a stopover point on the European flyway for many unique bird species, and the Canary Houbara Bustard is often spotted here. Hiking is limited to the boardwalks that stretch from the street to the beach, walking in the wetlands is prohibited. When I visited mid-afternoon in late November there were no birds to speak of, but many Moorish squirrels.

These brazen and adorable creatures were everywhere, on top of the plants, running along the ground, and noshing on the boardwalk.

+Hike up to Pico de la Zarza the highest point on Fuerteventura.

+Drive out on the unpaved roads to the remote Cofete Beach or Jandia Lighthouse.

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The Journey to Remote Cofete Beach, Fuerteventura

Those who dare to tackle the unpaved mountain road that leads to Cofete Beach will be rewarded with golden sand that stretches forever, mesmerizing wild waves, and a backdrop of the highest point on Fuerteventura.

Cofete is cut off from the rest of the island by the rough mountain range in Jandia Natural Reserve, it is referred to as the loneliest place in Spain. The lack of pavement and civilization breathes ideas of adventure, beckoning those looking to truly get away from it all.

How to get to Cofete Beach? There are two ways:

+Drive yourself. The road is over nine miles of dirt track, bumpy and intensely curvaceous, culminating at the top of a mountain – then narrowly snaking down it. So narrow at times, I saw a car have to reverse to a wider pocket so that two vehicles wouldn’t collide…all along a steep precipice. There are no guardrails, I would say this drive requires some nerves of steel, but when you make it to the pinnacle it is all worth it.

A magnificent view – and pure freedom down below. 4WD would be helpful, but not necessary. We asked the lady at the car rental location Cabrera Medina if insurance covers the drive. She said it does not, but upgraded us for free to a high clearance vehicle which she was confident would be fine. No matter what car you have, drive with caution.

+Take the mountain bus if you aren’t up for the drive. It runs twice a day between Morro Jable town and Cofete Beach. The last ride back is at 4:30 PM – don’t miss it because there are no hotel rooms to seek refuge in this remote area. Currently, the bus fare is 8.70 euro each for each way.

Parking and amenities

Parking is ample and free, the lot is right beside the sand next to a small cemetery. There are no life guards or restrooms at the beach. There is a small restaurant on the hillside, which isn’t too far of a walk.

How to enjoy Cofete Beach?

+Just relax. It’s been a long drive, you’re on vacation, and the 7½ miles of sandy coast means that you can surely find peace and quiet. Note that the water at this beach can be very dangerous with strong currents. It is not advisable to swim here.

+Take a walk. With Pico de la Zarza looming overhead, the scenery is fantastic. One great destination is the peninsula islet 5 miles north, another is Roque del Moro 1½ south – a giant boulder vertically jutting out of the sea.

+Explore Villa Winter. Built in 1937 by German engineer Gustav Winter, rife with conspiracy. Some say that it was used as a military output for German U-Boats during WWII, but this theory has never been proven.

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Hike to the highest point in Fuerteventura: Pico de la Zarza

The highest point on Fuerteventura rises directly from the beach splitting the Jandia Peninsula in half – one side dotted in resorts the other entirely remote. Hiking to the strikingly beautiful summit of Pico de la Zarza allows you to see the contrast from above, lovingly referred to as the donkey’s ear.

Find the trailhead on an elevated ridge in the outskirts of town, down at the end of Calle Sancho Panza by a water treatment plant, use the GPS coordinates: 28.058516, -14.328365 because there is no GoogleMaps entry as of yet.

This is a great morning for the seasoned hiker and a phenomenal path for those looking to challenge themselves. The trail is 8.6 miles roundtrip gaining 2647 feet of elevation within the Jandia Natural Reserve.

It is best to start your hike as early as possible, frequently the summit is clouded in the afternoon obscuring views. Almost all the way up to the summit you will follow a dull gravel road, broad and unmistakably simple to follow.

Many goats graze along the side of the path comfortably in the cool mountain air, there is more vegetation at this altitude because of the humidity from the sea clouds.

Sporadic and sometimes faded signage along the trail enlightens you to how much more mileage you have left.

Just don’t forget to turn around and look at how far you’ve come every so often, because the view is sensational.

As the summit draws near you will pass through a gated fence which keeps the goats from munching on the vegetation.

The Canary Island daisy, scientific name Asteriscus sericeus, is endemic to the island of Fuerteventura and grows plentifully at the summit cone.

Let its lovely yellow blossoms distract you from the final ascent, that narrows and zigzags up the final push.

A trig point marks the summit, give it a slap and then decide where to admire first.

Facing south, back where you came from are views into the town of Jandia, far down in the valley below.

The north facing views are of remote Cofete Beach another incredible adventure.

My favorite of all is the view out to the west which overlooks the ridge of the mountain culminating to the tip of Fuerteventura, and Gran Canaria out in the distance on a clear day.

The summit is relatively spacious with various nooks and crannies to sit and have some water and a snack with a view, often with a companion raven.

Note that it can be very windy and cold even up at this elevation, so bringing a jacket is always recommended. For me, the hike down is even more lovely because the endless views unfold in front of you all the way back down to the trailhead.

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Monumento Natural de Ajuy in Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

Along the west coast of Fuerteventura there are 120 million year old rocks that are older than the Canary Islands themselves.

This area of geological significance and incredible beauty is called Monumento Natural de Ajuy – but how can such a statement be claimed?

The oldest island in the archipelago, Fuerteventura was formed 70 million or so years ago and faults pushed the ancient limestone sediments above the water line.

To visit this treasure, head to the fishing hamlet of Ajuy, where you’ll find quaint seafood restaurants and a beach as black as night.

The cove is surrounded by cliffs that stand over 30 feet tall and are pounded by fierce surf daily.

The black lava sand is much better for sunbathing and admiring the scenery than it is for swimming, due to the strong current. In less than a mile hikers can enjoy the splendid trail from the beach that uncovers the treasures traversing the cliffside: marine fossils in the sediment, treacherous roaring waves, and a cave carved out of from sea.

The path is well maintained and easy to walk, but it can be slippery at times so wearing a good pair of shoes is recommended.

After walking the coast the trail splits, and heading down to your left there is a place to watch the captivating swell.


Limestone in this area is extremely pure, and thus very popular. In the 18th century a quarry was built to ship the limestone cut from the cliffs and deliver it to the neighboring islands. You can see remnants of this industrial complex, shafts and fire stoves, along the trail.

At the trails end there are stairs that lead into the Cuevas de Ajuy, which was used as a storeroom for the lime.

The intricate and jagged rocks here are exquisite, it is easy to find yourself imagining which pieces could be eroded away in the next millennia.

It was certainly a rough day when I visited, the massive waves were spectacular to watch. As I began walking down the stairs to explore the cave, a near catastrophe struck.

Seemingly out of nowhere a shockingly massive and powerful wave poured in to the grotto filling it entirely!

Forcefully the water rose into the cavity half the way up the stairwell. I couldn’t believe my eyes, as there were no danger signs warning visitors of this possibility, and the area was completely dry beforehand.

My legs got soaked and I had to hold on to the banister so I wouldn’t be smashed against a wall or fall down the stairs. Thankfully, I wasn’t in the back of the cave where I could have been severely injured, or even pulled out to sea. And thankfully, the elderly man who was just down there exploring the area, who barely made it up the stairs was on his way back, survived never knowing what could have occurred if he had been down there a few minutes later. I am unsure if this was a rogue wave, or a common occurrence, but with no signage please heed this warning and use caution on a rough day.

I visited early in the morning to avoid crowds, tours were starting to gather at the entrance as I was back…though I couldn’t help but fantasize about visiting at dusk – this would be a flawless place to watch the sunset sink under the western horizon.

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Hike Calderón Hondo & Montaña Colorada in Fuerteventura

In the northeast of Fuerteventura there is a dazzling desert hiking trail to a huge cauldron, Calderón Hondo and its lesser traversed conjoined twin Montaña Colorada.

The two can be tackled in an exciting 3½ mile loop gaining 912’ feet in total, or for an easier day you can simply hike to Calderón Hondo and back where the trail is always well maintained.

To find the trailhead for this hike you can enter the GoogleMaps entry location is named: Start of hiking lajares on Calle la Cancela, 38, 35650 La Oliva, Las Palmas, Spain or use the GPS coordinates: 28.688982, -13.931652.

Heading into the desert, it won’t be long until you reach a fork in the path, head right.

It will lead you past the base of Montaña Colorada, the Red Mountain (not to be confused with another Montaña Colorada on neighboring island Lanzarote).

It’s deep and beautiful color is due to red Lapilli, a volcanic gravel popular on the Canary Islands because it holds humidity. Thankfully, this mountain is only covered with it for a few inches as you can see in its deep pockmarks – and the rest is the less attractive black, thus it was saved from destruction. There some wildlife activity around a stonewall, so many Barbary squirrels emerged from the cracks and came running up to us.

Use caution as they are extremely brazen because they get fed, though this is a terrible shame for the environment because they are an invasive pest from Morocco.

It is hard to use self control and refrain from feeding them because they are just so cute, but please do not add to this problem. Continuing along a second mountain comes in to view, Calderón Hondo is connected via a steep saddle.

Keeping along, follow the path until you reach the point on the left where the old stone Camino Real zigzags up to the summit to reach the mirador.

It is hard to choose what is more exquisite, the views out into northern Fuerteventura, or the 229’ foot deep perfectly round crater.

In the distance you will witness the craters created by the relatively recent Malpais de Bayuyo, emerging around the same time the island of Lobos surfaced.

From dark lava rock to a dusty barren landscape, the views are endlessly intriguing.

With caution, it is possible to walk around the jagged circumference of the crater.

Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife which enjoys the cool air which the elevation provides.

Craters in the Canaries open to the northeast due to the trade winds.

Initially, you will be on a narrow ledge of rough lava rock – but a trail soon flattens out.

The vistas are continuously breathtaking, each step leads to a unique panorama.

At last – a perfect vantage point to take in the colorfully splattered caldera.

Some people choose to only hike half way around the crater and take the saddle over to Montaña Colorada – but I prefer to circumnavigate because there is just so much to see!

After heading back down the stone stairs, make the detour to visit the Old Shepard’s Hut. Goats are a mainstay on the Canaries for the meat and cheese, they are seen on almost every road and hiking trail, there were plenty up on the rim of the crater.

This herders hut is one of the only places you can find some shade in the area!

The Camino Real leads out to Corralejo, but that is a hike for another day.

Returning back to Calderón Hondo, take the dirt path that begins to wind around the opposite side of the mountain to complete the loop – or this is the point where you can head back the way you came for an easier hike.

Continuing on it is more narrow and less maintained, but there are more beautiful sights and ruins to discover.

From this distance an old stone structure with an agave plant in it looked like a shipwreck.

As the views of Calderón Hondo begin to fade, Montaña Colorada comes in to sight.

Here you can head up the slippery gravel trail to summit this mountain (or you could just continue around its base to complete the loop in another manner).

The coloring of the mountain is as promised in its name, a vibrant red hues shined bright on a blue sky day.

Views from up here were equally as captivating as from its slightly higher twin, and there was no one on this summit to share them with which made it all the more splendid.

No genuine route is defined, but it is easy enough to follow the herd path down the slope ahead of you.

This portion of the hike is extremely slippery, only recommended for those who are confident in their abilities. The trail reconnects with the original one taken at the beginning of the hike, completing a fantastic loop!

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Parque Natural Corralejo Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

On an island known for its phenomenal beaches, Parque Natural Corralejo is the place you cannot miss on your visit to Fuerteventura.

Vibrant turquoise water against golden sand and black lava rock flanks one side of the road, while vast desert of dunes seem to stretch for an eternity on the other.

Located on the northeastern side of the island the natural park stretches 2,600 hectare with over 6 miles of coastline. The road FV-1 divides the ocean from desert and to explore you must set out on foot, plenty of free parking is available.

Corralejo Beach

Depending on your taste, you can find a populated beach with amenities near the resorts or a sparsely visited natural environment – regardless of choice this is one of the most gorgeous tracts of beach in the Canary Islands.

Some coves are perfect sandy platforms, while others are more rugged landscapes with patches of beach and plots of lava rock.

The typical day on the island is windy, so there are areas where windsurfers flock to and many zuccos which are semi-circle piles of lava rock which help to protect you from the wind. Most beaches in the archipelago are nudist friendly, so don’t be surprised if you encounter bathers sans-suits.

Corralejo Dunes

Interesting fact: The sand that makes up the dunes is not your typical sand comprised of weathered rocks and minerals. This sand is formed by the disintegration of organic materials such as coral, mollusks, and microorganisms.

Some of the dunes are so tall, you’ll have to take a running start to get to the top. There are no set trails that go through the dunes, always be aware of your surroundings and don’t lose sight of the road while exploring. Certain sections are spotless others are dotted with shrub vegetation.

Following animal tracks can tell a story, or you might spot some wildlife in action.

This is the home of the largest colony of houbara bustard birds on the island, a vulnerable species found in North African deserts.

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