The Symbol of Gran Canaria: Roque Nublo

A volcanic eruption 4.5 million years ago created one of the biggest crags in the world, a sacred place of ancient worship.

The Rock in the Clouds stands 220 feet tall, a monolith atop a plateau surrounded by staggering beauty.

With an altitude of 5,948 ft Roque Nublo is the seconded tallest point in Gran Canaria, but surely the most well known icon on the island.

The Hike:

From the road the hike to the base of Roque Nublo is just under one mile (2 miles RT) and gains 150 feet.

The landscape is flowing with Canary pines, just a fragment of the grove which once covered the island before it was ravished by deforestation.

On you way up pass the pointing finger Roque de El Fraile, another impressive monument. Massive rocks rise beside you as you gain elevation, opening with a window to the sky.

Shaped by the whipping wind, a speckling of pockets mar wind carved caves.

When you reach the summit plateau the towering figure appear, shadowed by it’s smaller sibling Roque de la Rana. These rocks were formed by burning clouds, the same that destroyed Pompeii. Volcanic plugs formed of red basalt hold up well agains the erosion of time. From the summit the panoramic views throughout the ravine are unparalleled.

You can see all the way out to Mount Teide on the neighboring island of Tenerife on a blue sky day.

Good to know:

+Get to parking lot with the GoogleMaps location: Aparcamiento de la Degollada de La Goleta along the incredible hair-pin mountain road GC-600 as early as you can to secure a spot. The small pull off gets hectic later on nice days.

+Have some cash on hand to buy marzipan from the stand at the trailhead made from the local almond trees, among other snacks.

+Bring a layer to keep warm at this high altitude.

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Roque Bentayga in Gran Canaria

At the center of Tejeda volcanic caldera a standalone pinnacle jutting 4,639 feet high, a guardian over the Big Ravine. Roque Bentayga is the third tallest point in Gran Canaria located within a biosphere that covers 46% of the island.

In the ravine you will find many Canary pines and almond trees along with the dazzling view, bio diversity is significant in this area with 300 species, 50 of them which are endemic. Located on the incredibly beautiful and intense mountain road which leads to the highly popular Roque Nublo visible from Bentayga on the not so distant rim.

It is a short walk to reach the base of the basalt pylons, one mile roundtrip gaining 321 feet. Early in the morning not another sole was there, Bentayga receives far fewer visitors than its neighbor.

At the end of the trail is an archeological site, Almogarén del Bentayga, which was likely used for religious purposes by the aborigines.

It is easy to see why they would use the place with views that move you such as these. There are over a hundred caves here in this protected and precarious location that the people would use as their last stand against the Spanish conquistadors. In the visitor center below you can learn the history of the Canary Conquest, which began in 1402 with Jean de Bettencourt and would culminate on this very rock. A movie, artifacts, and displays lead up to the end where the Canarians with their weapons of wood and stone would stand behind the drywall at the base of this mountain, which strategically limited access to the top. They must have known it was the end as the Spanish proceeded with steel swards and guns, and the rest is history.

Good to know:

+The museum with its restrooms and trail are free to access

+Be sure to bring a jacket for cooler weather at this altitude

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Plaza Santa Ana in Gran Canaria’s Historic Quarter

In 1478 the Spanish began their conquest of Gran Canaria under Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand.

One of the first developments on the archipelago was Plaza Santa Ana and inside the square the first church of the Canary Islands was built.

Located in the neighborhood of Vegueta within the capital of the island, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, is the area that makes up the historical quarter today.

The pedestrian plaza isn’t brimming with tourist restaurants and hawkers selling souvenirs, but with palm shaded benches to sit and watch the world go by peacefully.

By far the Santa Ana Cathedral is the most eye-catching element, whose construction began in the year 1500 and was not complete for another 400 years. Due to this long building period, the twin towered church has characteristics of many architectural designs including gothic, neoclassical, and baroque.

Visitors can enter the church and marvel at the palm like piers and head up the tower for a birds eye view, for a fee (2019) of €3 per person. Also inside there is the Sacred Art Museum. In 1895 the dogs of the Plaza Santa Ana were placed in front of the cathedral.

There are eight sculptures are dedicated to the etymology of the Canary Islands, stemming from the Latin word for dog canis, due to the large dogs that once roamed the island. Other notable buildings include the town hall from 1842 and the Bishop’s Palace with its intricate Moorish entranceway.

Christopher Columbus stopped in the city on his way to America and you can visit Casa Museo de Colón to learn more about his stay on the island and journey to the new world. Exploring the narrow passages and alleyways lead to the most lovely postcard pictures.

Colorful fountains and colonial architecture abound in serenity, in stark contrast to the chaotic and busy tourist hubs of the island.

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Cuatro Puertas Archeological Site, Gran Canaria

Perhaps the best island in the Canary archipelago to play archeologist, Gran Canaria boasts some incredibly preserved aboriginal sites.

Cuatro Puertas, or Four Doors, is a complex of caves dug into the old volcanic cone Mount Bermeja by hand five hundred years ago.

The hill standing 1,500 feet outside Telde village is made up of tufa rock, its crumbling composition made it possible to carve out these caves, alleyways, and ceremonial sites with stone picks.

This free site is located in the east of the island just ten minutes off the main road, there is a moderately easy path, no longer than a mile roundtrip, which explores the linked cave system.

The use of the namesake cave Cueva de Cuatro Puertas is thought to be religious, but truly unknown – its unique and artistic design make it the most dramatic in the complex.

It is the first cavity along the path, enter the doors to gain a view to the north of the island.

An almogarén is the next interesting sight, a circular structure cut into the rock used in ritualistic worship. Here on the mountain high priests called faycanes would pour milk into the cavity as an offering to the gods.

Continuing on Cueva de Los Papeles is a cave that has been transformed by local shepherds with cemented floors and whitewashed walls, used until the late 1900s.

At the end of the path is Cueva de Los Pilares, the largest settlement on the hill facing the south bathed in the suns rays, yet protected from harsh elements and ideal for living in.

Further still, past where you think the path may end is the last of the caves, La Audiencia in its precarious position it is difficult to reach thus easier to defend.

Regardless of interest in history, this is simply a beautiful place to visit in for the scenery alone.

Wildlife is abundant, you may see birds of prey scanning the sky or hear the ruminating of pigeons in the caves.

Amongst the cactus flora, a hummingbird moth fluttered from flower to flower.

Those who love history, nature, and the eerie atmosphere of an abandoned civilization will be entranced by the site. No facilities are present, and the path was relatively quiet off the radar of most tourists.

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Exploring Monumento Natural de Bandama in Gran Canaria

A massive underground explosion only 2,000 years ago produced a maar in Gran Canaria, the magnificent volcanic crater Monumento Natural de Bandama reaching 700 feet deep and spanning 3,300 feet wide was born. The name of the caldera stems from a Dutch merchant of the 1500s, Daniel van Damme. He planted vines in the crater and made Bandama one of the most important winemaking regions on the island. Whether you are looking for a challenging hike or simply a place to enjoy the view – it is easy to fall in love with this natural monument.

From Below: Caldera Bandama

Hiking into the crater is one way to experience its beauty, but beware this is a reverse elevation jaunt of 557 feet in just over three quarters of a mile, leave enough energy to make your return trip uphill. Free parking may be available on the main strip along GC-802 where the hike begins, but more likely than not that busy little area will be full. No need to worry, head up to the road following parking signs which lead towards Real Club de Golf Las Palmas, Spain’s oldest golf club. Here there is more room to park, and you can back track down the hill to find the trailhead on the side of the road with the buildings, opposite from the tempting terraced greenery.

Enter the gate which is open from 8-5PM down a cobbled path to hike Los Caminos de La Caldera.

Switchbacks descend down to the caldera floor with dazzling views of the lush landscape along the way.

The cobbled path soon gives was to volcanic gravel making our walk slippery, proper shoes are helpful.

Half way down there is a viewing platform with a seating area to take a break.

Upon reaching the base, you are transported into a stunning world of natural paradise.

Down here you will find the preserved ruins of a historic farm settlement.

The caldera has been settled for hundreds of years, and one of the oldest grape presses in the area can be viewed on the hike.

Exploring the perfectly tended to abandoned rooms inside this archaic setting is strange and intriguing.

Before the Europeans invaded the island, aboriginals lived here and stored grain in the  crater. You can discover the archeological cave site along the north wall of the caldera.

Beside: La Ruta Del Vino

If we’re being completely honest, the beginning of this adventure was a bit of a mishap. After walking down the hill from the parking lot, the first trailhead I noticed was not the one that leads into the crater, the one I intended to hike for the day – but a trail leading through an terraced agricultural view.

Walking the path around the rural town was deserted of tourists, though a few friendly farmers nodded along the way.

Following vague signage the trail left the terraces and meandered out into the streets of a sleepy village.

Walking through the non-touristic part of the neighborhood gave insight into real Canary life, and the lovely views that they live with.

The small colorful cusp of the starting point stayed within view, nestled between the deep green and blue blanket.

This is a great low-key walk if you are looking to extend your time in the Bandama area, but if you are short on time learn from my mistake and make sure you start from the correct trailhead!

From Above: Pico de Bandama

Just a few minutes drive away is the volcanic cinder cone which displays an incredible vista over the caldera.

The panoramic view stretches out to the sea, the northeastern area of the island, and over Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

It is easily enjoyed by all by, because you can just about drive up to the summit, barring the last few steps.

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El Jardin Botanico in Gran Canaria, Canary Islands

Spain’s largest botanical garden resides on the island of Gran Canaria within in the lush Guiniguada Ravine.

El Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo, simply known as the Canary Gardens, was established in 1952 and spans 67 acres.

The garden is located in the capital of the island, Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and open daily, free for the public to enjoy.

Historic bridges span within the grounds enduring an aura of blissful antiquity.

If you plan on exploring the whole park I recommend, wearing good shoes because there are stone pathways and stairs that wind up the side of the mountain.

There are six hundred species of endemic flora from the archipelago – many in danger becoming extinct.

Plants flourish within the terraced space, similar to the cliffside of their natural habitat.

Camino de los Dragos is a particular stunner, these unique palms grow only in the archipelago.

Laurel forest and pine trees dominate other sections of the garden, you will also find other species from the neighboring Islas de la Macaronesia: Madeira, Azores, and Cape Verde.

There are thousands of exotic plants housed inside as well which you might find all over the world.

The cactus garden is perhaps the most impressive of the sections, teeming with towering specimens that lavish in the sunny Canarian days.

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Ever exciting elements dot the trails, you never know exactly what you may run into, or walk through.

Discover a waterfall, though manmade, still exudes a magical element on a desert island.

Enter an artistically constructed cave and climb through its channels.

Don’t forget to keep your eyes peeled for birds who thrive in this habitat, like the vibrant European robin.

The founder of the park was a Swedish man named Eric Sventenius, he is buried within his beloved garden.

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Exploring Gran Canaria of the Canary Islands

You would think that Gran Canaria and the Canary Islands were named for the infamous yellow Tweety birds which dwell there, but in reality canaria is derived from the Latin word for dog. When the first Europeans arrived on this island it was filled with large dogs, pictured on the Coat of Arms of the Canary Islands today.

Sourced from Google

Almost perfectly round, Gran Canaria is the third largest island in the archipelago and also has the third highest elevation at Pico de las Nieves . It is the second most populous of the islands and its city Las Palmas de Gran Canaria jointly makes up the capital of the autonomous islands along with Santa Cruz de Tenerife. One third of the island is considered a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO and its diverse landscapes have justified its nickname as a ‘continent in miniature’.

+El Jardin Botanico showcases the phenomenal greenery that grows on the island

+In Monumento Natural de Bandama you can hike to the base of Caldera Bandama or drive to the adjacent summit of Pico de Bandama for exceptional views

+Cuatro Puertas is a network of cliffside caves and wonder world for archeologist buffs

+Plaza Santa Ana showcases a concentrated zone of Spanish colonial architecture

+The quintessential hike of the island, Roque Nublo is a volcanic monolith surrounded by stunning scenery

+The highest point on the island is Pico de los Pozos de la Nieve and you don’t have to hike to see it

+Maspalomas Beach is the main resort hub in the south of the island with 1,000-acre dunes

+Lola Restaurant is an intimate dining experience in an unsuspecting locale

+Paseo de Canarias has an immaculate tiled alleyway honoring the traditions of the archipelago

+There are many natural sea water pools at Las Salinas Agaete swimming in

+Charco Azul may not be the biggest waterfall on the planet, but it is incredible to see one at all on a desert island

+The dragon tale of Mirador el Paso Marinero is an unforgettable sight and drive

+The journey is the destination when hiking to deserted Playa Guigui

+Molino de Viento is a windmill surrounded by kitschy larger than life kitchen appliances

Closest Islands: Fuerteventura & Tenerife

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Take the Ferry to Isla de Lobos From Fuerteventura

Just a mile off the coast of northern Fuerteventura is a small islet with no roads that was once inhabited solely by sea wolves.

Also known as monk seals, the thriving colony would decline and all but disappear except for occasional visitors, as the Spanish conquistadors arrived on the 15th century. More recently the park has become a protected preserve and today Isla de Lobos, translating to Wolves Island, can be reached by a fifteen minute ferry ride from Corralejo.

Logistics:

Head to the main port in the town of Corralejo, where parking is free, and into the Lobos Express office where you can book your transportation day of.

Roundtrip tickets (2019) cost €15 per person and multiple ferries run daily.

As recent as January of 2019 a restriction has been placed on the number of tourists allowed to visit the island. Now there is a permit system, which is accessible online for free – but you have to have applied a few days prior to your excursion or you may be denied entry to the island. Ferry operators will not have the permit for you. The ride is quick and was relatively smooth on my November afternoon, though boats are equipped with sick bags. My vessel had a restroom and glass bottom – though I spotted no wildlife on the quick ride.

Good to know:

When you arrive at the island you are on your own. There is a visitor center at the dock with a map of the hiking trails.

Along the trails on the island there are sporadic markers with distances to the nearest landmark.

You will find restrooms at the visitors center as well. There is a restaurant here, but you need to book a table for a specific time. Otherwise, bring your own water and snacks as I did.

Exploring the Island:

Lobos is a haven for hikers, because you can explore the entire island by foot on its wide dirt tracks if you have enough time, as it is just 1.8 square miles large.

On the west side of the island is where you will find its highest point, Montaña La Caldera – standing 417 feet above sea level.

Drawing nearer to the little mountain watch as the landscape and flora continuously change.

Soon enough there is a turn off to leave the main road and a well carved path takes hikers up the side of the mountain.

At the summit there is a Spanish trig point and some seriously phenomenal scenery.

A panorama spills out to every corner of the island displaying where you have yet to go,

along with secreted coves that may be impossible to get to – so admire them from up here.

Fuerteventura is visible in the not so far distance, but you’re a whole world away.

After drinking up the vista, the next great destination is Punta Martiño Lighthouse, but it’s not hard to enjoy the views along the way.

The lighthouse keeper and his family were the final permanent residents of the island, in the 1960s the structure became automated.

Climb up the hill to get a closer look at the little lighthouse, though you can go inside of it this is a great place to have a picnic.

You can truly see the volcanic nature of the island from this height, dark lava hills dot the land.

Neighboring the lighthouse is a salt marsh with is great for birding. Las Lagunitas is best viewed from the platform up here, because it is a protected site and cannot be hiked up to.

This is the half way point on the island, continuing on as a loop there is another salt marsh to see – but it did not have nearly as much wildlife activity.

Less people seem to frequent this side of the island, so it is very peaceful. Circling back to the port you may notice a ghost colony of agaves, which give an eerie deserted aura.

Before you reach the port there is a little fishing hub and a small beach. If relaxing is more your speed, there is an additional beach on the other side of the port called Playa de la Calera. Here is an ideally calm lagoon to swim in with a sandy crescent shore.

My pictures are taken towards sunset, but during the peak of the day the color of the water is truly turquoise. Lobos is a wonderful destination to truly get away from it all and disconnect from the mainland, and the world.

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Exploring El Cotillo in Fuerteventura, Canary Islands

El Cotillo is a charming coastal village in northwestern Fuerteventura with a laid back vibe, perfect for those looking to get away from the tourist masses. Today the little city has a few restaurants and hotels, but its history dates back to the 17th century when it maintained a trade route to neighboring island Madeira.

When visiting one of the greatest things to do is check out a cluster of lighthouses, Faro del Tostón. At first I only noticed the newly built candy cane structure from 1986, it is the tallest of the bunch standing 98 feet tall. Then I saw the second octagonal beacon which was built in 1960 and elevated 49 feet, looking drab and whitewashed today. Lastly the oldest of the three and the tiniest too, the brick building from 1897 is just 19 feet high.

Inside there is a museum telling the history of the lighthouses and the fishing village. Walking out onto the fossil beach, look at the old compacted sandstone seabed made up of ancient creatures. This are holds the highest fossil record on the island, so with a keen eye you never know what you might discover. A chunk of a shipwreck sits on shore, showing the need for a great lighthouse in these rough seas.

There is a half mile trail with informational panels around the area, great for birding and tidepooling.

East of the lighthouse are the lagoons of Playa los Charcos which can be reached on foot. Their clear turquoise water and powdery white sand contrast the black as night lava rocks, a true slice of paradise.

Find a zucco, one of the circular lava rock refuges, and enjoy sunbathing sans wind.

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Hike to the Oasis: Presa de las Peñitas in Fuerteventura

Driving through Betancuria’s snaking mountain roads, I noticed the town of Vega de Río Palmas from above for its river of green, so uncharacteristic in Fuerteventura.

Winding down into a small village, park at the trailhead of Presa de las Peñitas for a truly distinct hike on this desert island.

Just under two miles roundtrip, with very little elevation gain – this is a hike that anyone can enjoy beginning in the tall grass which makes a wonderful melody, swaying in the gentle breeze.

The trail begins to follow a dry riverbed with offshoots that always seem to rejoin it. Taking one of these smaller trails I noticed an old well.

Peeking inside I wondered is it still in use? It is amazing to find water in the desert.

Real green is such a welcome sight. A cluster of tall palms give the atmosphere of an oasis.

Of course this vital source of life would beckon many creatures into the area. The most vibrant dragonfly I’ve ever seen sat steadily near a stream.

This trail is especially recommended for birders. Up above there were Canary Island buzzards and Egyptian vultures. Kestrels perched from a vantage point in the palms, looking for a meal.

A laughing dove native to Africa sat next to its neighbor, the trade wind blows over interesting birds all of the time.

Before I knew it, I was entering the area that I’d seen from before – the thick grove of trees with Pico de la Muda prominent in the backdrop.

Leaving the riverbed, the path began to narrow and ran beside a flat plane with a muddy appearance.

This was the top of Las Peñitas Dam, built in 1939 after the Spanish Civil War.

Once used to irrigate crops, today it is full of salt and sediments that have come with the years, it barely collects any water.

From here you descend into a truly magnificent ravine unlike anything on the island, called Mal Paso.

It’s deep smooth walls are made up of plutonic rock, its polished base is pocked with giant kettles.

Shade is such a rarity here, it is a dreamy picnic spot – or just a place to lay and watch the world around you. An egret hunts for a meal.

Ruddy shell ducks forage in their secretive manner, only wishing to be viewed from a distance.

Into the ravine you will spy the hermitage of Las Peñitas also referred to as Malpaso.

Legend has it that the Norman conqueror Jean Bethencourt brought a symbol which would become the Shrine of Our Lady of La Peña and on the third Saturday of September there is a pilgrimage to this site.

For a longer walk, the Camino Natural de Fuerteventura stretches all the way out to Ajuy. 5.4 miles one way.

Good to know:

+Parking is free

+There are no facilities

 

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