I dined out every night in Tenerife, but nothing was as memorable as the experience at Guachinche Las Chozas. Truly, this was the best food had within all of the Canary Islands.
To understand this place is to know what a Guachinche is: a local makeshift restaurant unique to Tenerife, who makes its own wine and traditional food, sometimes situated in a family house or a roadside kiosk. Often there is no printed menu, and rarely do these places take credit cards – so bring cash. So popular with locals, Canarian residents make guachinche routes eating at several establishments during the day. We tried only Las Chozas, which made a lasting impression in its own rite, starting at the intriguing cavernous interior.
The staff provided excellent service, though no one spoke a word of English communication worked well. I loved to hear the happy employees singing together at the start of their night, they seemed like one big harmonious family. Delicious crusty bread and sumptuous aioli was plopped immediately on the table.
Get a carafe of the impeccable house red wine at a ridiculously inexpensive price.
The croquettas were the best we have encountered throughout the archipelago, so soft with the perfect crust.
In the middle lies a heaping portion of tuna salad – whose creaminess paired beautifully with the fried companion. The pollo asado was like nothing I’ve ever had.
The smoke. The flavor. The crust. So tender, surely this is one of the most remarkable chickens on earth. Dessert – I can barely convey how divine this was, but the tragedy of it all is I don’t even know how to ask for it ever again by name. It was almost like a tiramisu, but so much better.
Coffee notes. Marshmallow too. A texture that absolutely melts in your mouth, we had to order a second one right away. Dinner starts late in the traditional Spanish manner, so note the hours: open for lunch, closed for siesta, then dinner from 8-11. The restaurant is closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Its winding alleyways are a wonder to wander and get lost, to find the loveliest details.
Quaint colonial architecture can be found around every bend, with enchanting wooden balconies.
A visit to the historic house and museum Casa de los Balcones has perhaps the most intricate of them all.
Jardín Victoria is a popular place to take a stroll, but during my visit to the town it was closed for maintenance. Luckily for me, there was a hidden gem just around the corner, Servicio Agronómico Nacional Hijuela del Jardin Botánico.
That name is quite a mouthful, so the gardens are often referred to simply as La Hijuela. With a long history, the garden first opened in 1788 during the reign of Charles III.
At this time it was adjacent to a nunnery, today the garden is located behind Town Hall.
Approximately an acre of pristine land boasts a plethora of both endemic and exotic flora.
Of course the magnanimous dragon tree is a showstopper, its umbrella branches reach out into the sky.
Many labels are in place to educate amateur horticulturists about the trees and flowers.
Wildlife loves this oasis in the city, many butterflies are attracted to the vibrant blossoms.
Birds sit and sing on the limbs of the shade in fanning trees, some are not shy at all.
Perhaps the most serene spot of all is a seat on the edge of the koi pond, to watch the golden fish saunter to the sunlit surface.
You might bump into this oasis if you are lucky, rambling through the back streets of town – but more likely than not this is a tranquil treasure visited by those in the know.
The garden is open daily and free for all, if you happen to find it.
There are multiple trails and trailheads to explore, combing them covers over six miles of trails.
Little shade exists in this landscape, bring a hat and water. Through the interior, get up close and personal with the three volcanic cones exist within the reserve.
The largest is Montaña Grande, the big mountain, stands 906 feet tall with a crater that stretches almost 1,000 feet in diameter, its depth 164 feet.
Trails do no lead to its summit, in fact there is little elevation gained at all along the paths. The subsidiary cones include Montaña de la Mar, the Mountain of the Sea, and Las Morras del Corcho – Cork Bluff. The lava flow in this park is new, relatively speaking, and less 10,000 years old. Flora in the park is exquisite, witnessing the endemic Cardón cactus is most exciting of all, whose columns sprout like an antique candelabrum.
These cacti can grow up to thirteen feet tall and during the spring and summer flower along with producing a red fruit. Inside there is a sticky white toxic liquid, latex. The plant creates a whole habitat, look closely to find spiders, lizards, and larvae who call this place home. Leaving the stagnant inland and walking back around the breezy coast is a relief, bring swimming gear to take a dip at Playa de la Entrada.
One of the most exquisite details in the park is a thickly formed lava arch, extra enchanting with the splash of a wave.
Other smaller arches have been eroded away by the pounding of the fierce Atlantic waves.
Such a short drive away from the capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, this is a relaxed option for a peaceful adventure.
Completed in 1992, its modern and angular appearance of climbing columns tips to a height of 160 feet.
This unique lighthouse is one out of six that was chosen as a symbol on a Spanish stamp.
Note that GoogleMaps may try to sabotage visiting the site, you will want to stay close to the coast using the road Camino La Costa.
Close to the structure, the road deteriorates quickly. It may be best to park out a bit and walk on over, enjoying the scenery.
This is a popular spot with locals who were hanging out past sunset people playing a great beat on the drums.
You will find the oldest of all the dragon trees located in the town of Icod de los Vinos, within Parque del Drago. There is an entrance fee to get up close and personal with this giant, learn about it, Canarian culture, and view other endemic flora in the botanical garden that surrounds it.
With no growth rings there isn’t a sure way to tell exactly how old the specimen is, estimations vary from 200-400 years, not quite yet living up to its thousand year old name. However, the massive tree reaches over 70 feet tall, with a trunk circumference of over fifty feet, and over 300 main branches. How dazzling it would be to see the tree in bloom, when thousands of flowers make it 3.5 tons heavier! If you are short on time or cash, there is a free vantage point with a lovely look at the tree from Plaza Andrés de Lorenzo Cáceres, which is an idyllic place to rest or have a picnic.
For some the highlight of the area may be the red and white striped Punta de Teno Lighthouse, standing over 65 feet tall.
It’s one of seven on the coast of the island, the second in this location built in 1978. Others may be charmed by the boardwalk strolls that leads to resplendent views of the Los Gigantes cliffs, mistily fading into the horizon.
Explore ever cove and cranny this scenic gem has to offer, consider packing beach gear and staying the day. Remember, access is restricted in this area – know when you can visit to avoid heartache. Private vehicles are allowed Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesdays only – barring holidays.
Not only a national record, but this volcano is renowned as the third highest in the world, from its base in the ocean rising up 24,606 feet. Petrified rivers of lava, strands of pine forest, and some of the strangest rock formations make up Teide National Park, along with its infamous summit. The ancient Guanches thought the mountain sacred and believed that Teide was the gate to Hell, its last eruption was in 1798. To naturalists, the place is heaven with its varied terrain and unique flora. The Teide bugloss is an endemic to the island and in spring its lava red blossom grows nearly ten feet tall.
Whether you’re looking to hike and rock climb or take in views and learn about the geology of the land, there is something for everyone in this park.
+A restaurant and hotel are available within the park for your convenience.
+There are two visitor centers, be sure to make one of them your first stop to use the restroom and obtain a map. El Portillo Visitor Center is open from 9-4, its displays are extremely well done which include walking through a red glowing cave with many interactive and informative components.
How to get to the summit:
The area is comprised of green pumice stone and the bizarre sight stops most people who feel the urge to take a closer look.
From the designated parking area there are sanctioned trails and a place right beside the road to do some preliminary exploration.
Here, prototypes of space vehicles and tools have been tested to see how they would fare on the moon.
The ranger assured me a loop is possible, though there is not significant information online. She did not know the exact mileage of said loop, which I would approximate to 5 miles gaining 2,000 feet of elevation. The trails are marked via numbered senderos, following the route: 4-31-15-(summit spur)-5-4 to complete the loop. The initial walk on sendero 4 is flat, rocky, and quick.
The scenery does not disappoint, and is a lovely precursor to the rest of the hike.
Find the junction pointing towards S-31 to begin your ascent, which climbs quickly and relentlessly.
Most of the time on this path is a grunt, only stopping to look behind you and take in the views while catching your breath.
They simultaneously take your breath away, as the sound of the business down below dissipates.
Up reaching S-15, there is still more to climb, but the summit is beginning to near.
When you reach a T junction, take the spur and head to the summit, the third tallest spot in the park.
Standing at 8,907 feet the views are utterly sublime, although unsettlingly windy. Take shelter inside the remains of the astronomers hut, used by Jean Mascart to study Halley’s Comet in 1910 if you’re looking to picnic. The climb is over, but the journey is only half way through. Continuing the loop down the mountain is much more enjoyable with jaw dropping valley views.
An ever-changing backdrop keeps a smile on your face, while the cool wind wicks away your sweat.
Along the descent a map appears, the first one that actually made sense to this hike, though it distinctly mentions that you cannot loop – be confident that you can (as a park ranger explicitly assured me).
Soon the next turn appears onto S-5, with its sweeping views and slippery volcanic gravel.
Keeping your eyes on the ground so you don’t fall is important, while constantly yearning to look at the precious monument Teide.
In the quiet of this trail, a hawk landed before me in the distance – some of the only company I would find early in the morning.
When you arrive at S-4 the trail finally flattens out, head in the direction leading towards Parador, where the hike began.
This is the ancient Camino de Chasna, used for over a thousand years for grazing herds and transporting wood, ice, and other goods.
Its rock crops are stunning and one of a kind, attracting many climbers with their gear to take the short walk over from the hotel.
Looking back to them, there is a perfect frame of the formations and the mountain you just summited.
In the spring time the towering red Tenerife bugloss bloom alongside the trail, during a winter visit there was nothing but a dry skeleton to look at.
+Roques Garcia is one of the most popular routes in the park, leading to seemingly extraterrestrial formations in a two mile loop, of moderate effort gaining 575 feet.
+Sámara Volcano Cone is accessed off of TF-38, where you can witness a whole different side of Teide.
Sendero N13 is a three mile loop gaining 826 feet of elevation, it is less trodden and the trail more faint, but there are always landmarks in sight to keep from becoming disoriented.
Here the rare Canarian pine forest dominates the scene splashing color into the black terrain. The climb up the mountain is on volcanic gravel, slippery and challenging, but the pastel mosaic at the summit is well worth the effort.
Two small lava formations sit at the top, which from a distance looked like trolls huddling together against the wind.
The magical quality of this area has always been understood, and stories of witches drinking the blood of newborns and swimming naked in the sea run rampant. Significant archeological discoveries have been made in the woods, including that of an archaic mummy of the Guanche. Various hiking trails, remote beaches, and picturesque villages can be reached by driving through the narrow serpentine streets. The Anaga Rural Park is free to access and it is a very large area, best to start your visit at Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center where there are rangers, maps, refreshments, and restrooms.
You don’t need to be a hiker to enjoy this place of epic beauty, if you are willing to tackle the intimidating road system – which can be unnervingly narrow and perilous. Risk will lead to reward opening up some of the most incredible panoramas right on the side of the road. 
Serious itinerants can plot famous miradors for their trip, but know that pull offs are well maintained and frequent easily promising great views during any visit.
+El Pijaral is a hike in a protected area of the park rife with endangered endemic species, which requires a free permit, 
Intermittently an outcrop will appear through the crowded woods revealing a taste of a pristine view.
Upon descending a set of stairs and out into the sunlight hikers are treated to the main viewpoint, only green and blue spanning forever over the rugged landscape.
At just over the half way point of the hike and equipped with benches, this is the perfect spot to take a picnic lunch. Here the knowing and endemic Palman chaffinch hung around looking for leftovers, made for great company.
From this point follow the one sign along the route pointing towards your return. The trail is quiet and more flat than the previous portion, with an interesting cave cut out from stone.
+Mirador Aguaide is located in Chinamada, the serene village at the end point of a wild winding road.
A short and lovely trail from town, just three quarters of a mile roundtrip, leads to a mind blowing vista.
A viewing platform showcases a mountain ridge so sharp that seems to be cut with a knife, its colors bursting with the afternoon light.
It is a fall drop down to the sea below, do tread with caution and stay within the permitted boundaries.
With few others frequenting this area, it is exceedingly charming. If you want to extend your time here, consider at meal at Restaurante La Cueva.
+Taganana is an idyllic and isolated village that has only been connected by road to the rest of the island in recent decades. 
It is the gateway to the beaches along the northern shore of Anaga. Multiple coves appear along the coastal road, Playa de Almaciga is a small black sand beach best frequented at low tide.
Waves are rough here. Stop by Roque de Las Bodegas (Wineries Rock) for a stroll to the rock that sticks out into the sea, where the wine from Taganana was made in the 17th century and shipped off to England.
+Playa de Las Teresitas is located on the southern shores of the Anaga Peninsula, and can be visited with ease any day of your trip situated closely to the capital.
This popular beach has a large free parking lot and amenities such as restaurants and lounge chairs for rent.
Its scenery is top notch with lush green mountains as a backdrop, its sand is soft and golden. On the rocks closest to the city there are many painted portraits of famous Spaniards.
Have you been to Anaga? What were your favorite spots?
Eventually the trails all converge and start to head up past the dunes. Here the trail becomes a slippery volcanic path gaining elevation quick, though built in rock steps alleviate this trouble for some time. The path is short however, and before too long the end comes in to sight. A trig post marks the summit standing 561 feet tall, overlooking the ocean and the land that gives this place its name.
The red color comes from iron mingling with basalt, which in the humid island environment oxidizes into the most vibrant hue.
After a great climb, make the unsteady descent down to La Tejita to enjoy one of the largest natural beaches the island has to offer.
Viewing the mountain from the sand is particularly gorgeous, with its bold color revealed.
Whether you’re looking for a hike or a lounge, the scenery in this area is incredible around the unique yellow volcanic cone that was formed in an underwater explosion. Located in Costa del Silencio, you will find free street parking on Calle Montaña Amarilla or the adjacent Calle Chasna.
This perfect blue sky Canarian day had a constant light breeze that wicked away the sweat from little bouts of elevation and warm weather.
The landscape turned to cactus, shrub, and volcanic gravel heading in the direction of the coast.
Interesting flora dapples the land adding a spice of color to the mainly dark rocks.
Many spits jut out into the sea and exploring each spur may lead to splendid views such as this rock arch.
Rounding the bend towards the beach the most idyllic portion of the yellow mountain awaits.
Discover the swirling shapes beyond imagination, eroded by the waves for eons.
Pale hoodoo formations seemingly sculpted out of the cliff side are a jaw dropping element to this hike.
With a rock so soft the waves weren’t the only ones to carve into the surroundings, someone (not following the leave no trace policy) dug a sundial into the surface.
If the tide is right you are in for a magnificent loop heading back to the beach, visible in the near distance.
Here the mountain shows its true color, vibrant yellow cliffs contrast against the blue sky.
Tide pooling is a great activity, as the coast is teeming with all sorts of aquatic life.
Anemone, periwinkle, and little fish were all trapped during the change of the tide.
Be cautious in this slick area not to slip, and also be ever aware of in coming waves.
Soon you will reach the beach where you can relax before finishing up the short remainder of the loop.
Other than on the pebbles, you can spread out along the labyrinth of concrete, or within the crannies of the yellow mountain itself.
Crystal clear waters and bizarre underwater formations make this a favorite spot of snorkelers and divers.