A distinct cluster of seaside cliffs has made a name for itself on the Reykjanes Peninsula for its unique beauty. Valahnúkamöl juts out of the ocean 33 feet high, repeatedly pounded by the elements for thousands of years resulting in its craggy weathered appearance.
Located on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the cliff is comprised of pillow lava from a single eruption, which is one of the most common rocks on earth. 
This kind of rock is created when lava flows under the sea in ocean ridges, squeezed out like a tube of toothpaste.
Historically in the peninsula, during the year 1226 there was an undersea eruption which created the Sand Winter. Ash fall was so heavy it was as dark as night in the middle of the day, resulting in death and famine. It is possible to climb up one of the prongs of the cliff to gain fantastic views – but the main cliff is closed due to heavy erosion.
A path leads down to the shore on the south edge of Valahnúkamöl, no more than a quarter of a mile, where a massive boulder beach at the base of the cliff can be explored.
Because it is a further walk, this section of the park tends to offer more solitude than the cliff and its other side which is flat and filled with informational boards.
With the harsh way of the ocean, it isn’t hard to imagine that these gigantic stones will become a black sand beach one day.
Heading back to the main area there is a wonderful view of the oldest lighthouse in Iceland, this area is filled with interesting sights.
Walking the flat-topped northern surrounding area, discover rocky coves and jagged pillars bursting out of the water.
Many islands have formed on the ridge which can be seen offshore, now natural reserves that are homes to seafaring birds.
Notably, Eldey Island is a sheer volcanic island nine miles from the shore that stands a towering 252 feet tall.
It is home to one of the largest gannet colonies in the Atlantic with 16,000 mating pairs. Gannets are the largest sea bird found in the country, but that wasn’t always the case. The island was also home to the last known pair of the Great Auks, now extinct. These birds were 33 inches tall and weighed 11 pounds, fantastic swimmers and the largest members of the Alcid family – along with their famous cousins the puffin. Perhaps their demise was the fact that Great Auks were flightless, making them easier to catch. On June 3rd, 1844 the final Great Auk on earth was killed by a Danish natural history collector. Today you can see what they looked like by a fantastic sculpture located on the coast, which is a part of The Lost Bird Project by artist Todd McGrain.
His goal is to bring attention to environmental issues such as loss of diversity. Sculptures from this series such as the Carolina Parakeet and Labrador Duck can be seen around the world, reminding us our responsibility to the protection of nature.
Nearby:
+Reykjanes Lighthouse is the oldest structure of its kind in the country
+Gunnuhver Geothermal Fields is Iceland’s largest mud pool
In 1929 a new model, the current one standing, was rebuilt on Bæjarfell Hill. Towering 102 feet tall made of concrete, it is no more than a five minute jaunt up the hill to get to the doorstep of Iceland’s oldest lighthouse.
From up here you will see a magnificent view of the coastline easily within walking distance, the jagged cliffs of Valahnúkamöl.
In the other direction watch as the steam rises up from Iceland’s largest mud pool, 
Nestled between two other incredible sights, this area truly packs a punch. As a bit of mist began to dissipate, a rainbow adorned the countryside.
If you keep your eyes peeled along the trail, you might discover the hidden turf house adding an extra layer of charm to the environment.
There are thirteen lighthouses built around the peninsula, and the oldest one may soon lose its title. The highly eroded hill on which the lighthouse stands today may lead to the development of a new site, leaving the old tower defunct.
The massive boiling pot measures 65 feet across with a temperature of 570˚F emitting an endless thick cloud of stinking sulfuric steam. Not only is it Iceland’s largest geothermal site, being so close to the ocean it is also the only hot spring made up solely of seawater.
In the 1930s a family chose this warm ground to live on to cultivate a garden. The Hoyer’s grew flowers and made flowerpots using clay baked in a geothermal oven. Luckily, a job offer took them elsewhere – because their abode would not stand the test of time. You can still see the foundation of their house and workshop.
Sitting on top of the Mid-Atlantic rift, the area is extremely volcanic and in 2006 the hot pool expanded aggressively, gobbling up ground and the very viewing platform tourists were used to snap pictures from. The site was closed down for years, but is now reopened – you can spot the old boardwalk when the steam blows in a certain direction.
The ground around this site is boldly colored in a infernal red, almost blood like. A story coincides with this epic pool, also known as Gunna Hot Spring and named for a 400 year old ghost. So it goes, Gudrun was a poor woman (potentially a witch) who couldn’t afford the pay her rent. Her landlord was a wealthy lawyer by the name of Vilhjalmur Jonsson and decided to take her only possession, a cooking pot, as payment. Furious, she decided to starve herself until she died. When she was taken off to be buried, the men noticed all of the sudden – the coffin felt light as air. When they began to dig her grave a chilling whisper spread throughout the air: No need deep to dig, no plans long to lie. The next day the landlord was found dead – blue with broken bones. Gunna had began her revenge, and soon the whole Reykjanes Peninsula was feeling her wrath! Vilhjalmur’s wife was the second to die, then others around became crazy and mysteriously died after seeing Gunna. All of this continued until a sorcerer priest came to end the madness. He took a ball of yarn, Gunna was given the loose end and pushed into the hot spring. Some say they saw her fall down into the abyss, others say she hangs on its edge – for all of eternity.
Nearby:
+Valahnúkamöl is an interesting rock formation and rugged coast
So out of a sea of boring gas stations, pick this spot to pump and enjoy a free, fun, and educational stop. 
This collection of stones, minerals and fossil from across Iceland was curated by a family of by self taught geologists.
Their passion is evident, the large room is packed with interesting specimens and all sorts of fascinating accompanying facts like the Midwife Stone.
Iceland’s largest piece of petrified wood on display weighs 573 lbs, it was found on the 
If you’re not aware of how an object becomes petrified – the process of turning something organic into stone, you can learn it at the museum! Game of Thrones tours stop at the museum, so if you are a fan of the show it may have added interest. There are handcrafted items made by the family for sale which would make unique souvenirs. Open from 12-6PM daily.
Reykjadalur Geothermal River, known as the Valley of Steam, was quite possibly my favorite hot spring adventure – found in 
Always wear the proper gear and bring supplies. It is a moderate hike, easy actually for avid hikers gradually gaining 915 feet of elevation on what can sometimes be slippery volcanic gravel. Average trekking time is between 45-60 minutes to reach the river. The path begins crossing over a bridge and heading through a gate.
Right off the bat this is a beautiful walk, making good to its name steam was rising from the valley.
Along the way stop to marvel at a vista of the captivating Djúpagilsfoss Waterfall.
You will also pass by a geothermal site filled with hot springs and mud pools.
Be aware, this are not the bathing area and it is much too hot to touch these pools. Tread carefully remaining on the path.
There are plenty of signs around warning hikers of the danger of these scalding spots. Keep hiking until you reach the boardwalk, which is your otherworldly destination.
The Hot Spring:
It is a shallow flow so stones have been piled up to dam little lagoons, which are just deep enough to lie down in and lounge beneath the mountains.
Early in the morning we were lucky enough to have this slice of heaven to ourselves, it is worth setting your alarm clock for.
If you’re looking to make a day of it, trails lead further into the valley and become more difficult. With more to see and driving to do, we headed back to the parking lot reveling in the scenery after a perfect adventure.
Good to know:
+Wear clothes that are easy to change in and out of and your bathing suit underneath them.
Visiting the waterfall is very simple, there is a short gravel path leading from the parking lot no longer than a quarter of a mile showcasing different views.
Its name translates to The Waterfall of Salmon because so many of the fish were historically present in the river. They are said to have unusually long and powerful tails to make it up past the waterfall where they spawn. Seals are known to go as far as the base of the waterfall to catch a salmon dinner.
The falls are found along Iceland’s longest river, Þjórsá, its source is the Hofsjökull Glacier. The glacier melt and spring run off help create an impressive flow of 360m3 per second! While the falls aren’t that high, just shy of twenty feet tall, they are very wide and powerful.
So vigorous that the famous power company Landsvikjurn has interest in turning the natural site into a hydroelectric plant. This vision has created some controversy because it is expected to drain the waterfall!
Fun Fact: During colder winters ice can pile up on these falls 98 feet high.
The preserve is in a very quiet area with little signage, though there is a GoogleMaps location that will lead you there along an unpaved road, manageable in any vehicle. If you lose service you can use the coordinates: 63°54’00.84” N 21°11’18.47” W.
The drive is lovely, through a rural village filled with sheep and on a sunny day mountainous views.
Doubling as a bird blind, the information center has an interior to keep you warm in inclement weather,
along with a ladder for roof access – which is really quite fun to hang out on in warmer weather.
From up top there are great views that stretch out into the Ölfusá River estuary.
A trail map is available here documenting a loop no longer than two miles around the wetlands, but the path is difficult to follow in some places.
That being said, you cannot get lost because it is a flat area with the visitor center always in view, however try your best to stick to the path as to not disturb wildlife. To enter the preserve in proper and being the hike, you must climb over a small ladder.
Sometimes it is a herd path, other times there are nondescript wooden pegs, and more often than not it is entirely flooded, so don appropriate footwear.
The wetlands are characterized by many small ponds and the preserve is situated on a lava plain which was the site of the worlds largest post-Ice age lava flow, 8,700 years ago.
September isn’t the best month for birding in the country, but there are 70 known species of birds that frequent the preserve.
A family of whooper swans and their cygnets were a highlight to watch, feeding in a peaceful pond.
Red-throated Divers are a rare bird to find in the country, but many make their home in the preserve so it is common to see them there. Many birds were too swift to photograph and even a blur to identify.
Upon reaching the river the trail more or less dissolved, many people have accounts of seals in the water here – so keep your eyes peeled.
A tranquil place for the birds and birders of Iceland to get away from it all.
That is a blessing, because it would become a madhouse trying to get through the narrow crack which leads to the one that lives within the canyon, the English derivative of the waterfall. You’ll pass other little waterfalls along the way walking from one incredible sight to another, all sharing the same cliff with such different personalities spawning from the melt water of Eyjafjallajökull Glacier. Visiting in the middle of the day there was a short queue outside the passageway, but to get inside it is such a short distance, just a few steps – so it does not take that long for your turn to come along. While the walk is short the path is actually the Gljúfura River, which gives life to the waterfall.
You can take off your shoes, wear water shoes, hiking shoes, get your boots soaked, or attempt to rock hop. It’s going to be cold and wet for a minute or so, but the water wasn’t too high or powerful during my September visit. And it’s worth the mild discomfort that is a portal to a fantasy world.
Inside it is very damp due to the perpetual mist, and dark because it is cave like – except for the open skylight. This combination creates a cathedral of moss with a truly unforgettable waterfall raining down its cliff.
There is a grand boulder sitting right before the falls made of palagonite rock, named franskanef, which is excellent for climbing atop to get the perfect picture. Speaking of pictures, being so close to the waterfall and its trail of mist makes it very difficult to keep your lens dry. Don’t miss the nearby turf houses too add yet another exciting element to this area packed with wonder.
Good to know:
Located in the 
You’ll want to wear a rain jacket because of all the mist, which can also cause the path to become slippery so walk with care.
The waterfall is just shy of 200 feet fall and its power is a result of the melt water from the Eyjafjallajökull Glacier. That’s the one with the volcano underneath it that downed flights in Europe when it exploded in 2010. Don’t miss nearby Gljúfrabúi to double the adventure with far fewer crowds.
Just a ten minute walk away on a nicely maintained path with additional waterfalls and a stream which may have fish floating around in it.
Good to know:
The facility was built to teach people how to swim, on an island where many careers dealt with fishing. Today, Icelanders cannot graduate school without knowing how to swim. Here tourists and locals alike can find a place to swim in the valley below the Eyjafjallajökull Glacier, free of charge.
How to get there:
There are a few streams to cross which were very shallow during my September visit. Don’t think of the hike as a chore to get to the pool, it enhances the adventure and is exceptional beautiful.
The good, the bad, and the ugly of Seljavallalaug Pool:
The Bad: This is not exactly a hot pot, but more like a lukewarm bath. The water comes from a hot spring nearby and the temperature of the pools is between 68 and 86°F. If you stay near the pipe in the corner farthest from the changing room, closest to the path that is the warmest area. 
Also, the pool is cleaned once a year so there is often a healthy coating of algae, making it a bit skuzzy and slippery.
Pro-tips for natural hot springs:
+Wear clothes that are easy to change in and out of and your bathing suit underneath them.