Widely dubbed as one of the coolest and bohemian barrios in Madrid you will find a balance of two distinct pictures in Lavapies. Translating to ‘wash feet’ – where the name came from, no one knows for certain, but the neighborhood has the highest population of immigrants in the city who may need a foot bath from many days of traveling to get here. On one side of this town you will see poverty and ethnic businesses that comes with these new arrivals from different lands, attracting what composes the intrigued polar opposite. A young and hip crowd moves in to experience these cultures, thus beginning to gentrify the area. During my visit to the capital I enjoyed seeing contrasts in this area and wandering the steep, narrow, and often deserted cobbled streets outside of my AIRBNB. Perhaps Pablo Picasso strolled the same route when he lived here in 1897, and he would be pleased to see that art prevails profusely throughout the streets. Discovering the hidden gems in this off the beaten path quarter is half the fun, but here are some spots to get you started…
+La Tabacalera de Lavapies
In its former life, the cavernous brick warehouse was a factory where women shredded and chopped fragrant tobacco leaves.
Today the dimly lit hallways of a building dating back to 1780 are doused in colorful creativity, open late into the night.
The independent gallery is free for all, to visit and also to use as an open street art canvas.
An outdoor space hosts a community garden and from time to time there are performances.
+Mercado de San Fernando
Blink and you might miss the nondescript entrance to this market which has been here since 1944.
If you want to cook at home, there are cheesemongers, butchers, and produce vendors to gather local goods.
Ethnic and traditional prepared food are among the thirty some odd storefronts, Mercadillo Lisboa was the perfect place to have brunch offering a gorgeous coffee and savory pincho de tortilla, for just 2,50 euro.
Tourists are a rarity and prices are extremely affordable, just don’t expect to find menus and service in English.
Even if you aren’t hungry, there are stores selling local wares including a book shop that sells literature by weight.
If you happen to be traveling on the third Sunday of the month, swing by the courtyard to enjoy a salsa dance party.
+Candela Flamenco
Without question, experiencing this intimate performance was my most cherished memory from Madrid. The dark room is tiny with rows of folding chairs nestled closely together, low ceilings, a small stage, and bar.
Tickets are just 15 euro and a drink is included with admission, a serious bargain compared to the expensive touristic counterparts you’d find in the center of the city.
Shows start at 11PM mainly on Fridays and Saturdays, generally they don’t begin right on time. Not a night owl myself I almost skipped the event for this reason, but that would have been tragic.
Four artists were performing the night of my show, a singer with a voice of gold, a seriously talented guitarist, and two of the most passionate dancers.
Watching flamenco is entirely entrancing and utterly unique, many people linger after it is over and dance until dawn.
+El Sur
A tiny tapas tavern covered in movie posters and packed with people stays open late. Service is friendly and you’ll find a menu in English. I came in looking for a small bite and ended up ordering a salad which was vibrant, fresh, and tasty.
Followed with a moussaka which was layered with flavor and seriously delicious.
Complimentary cordials came at the end of the meal, a sweet end to an extraordinary day.