The most ancient portion of Tenerife Island is in its northeastern corner, the Anaga Mountains. Precarious twisting roads meandering through humid laurel forests that characterize the peninsula are so dense they darken even the brightest of days. The magical quality of this area has always been understood, and stories of witches drinking the blood of newborns and swimming naked in the sea run rampant. Significant archeological discoveries have been made in the woods, including that of an archaic mummy of the Guanche. Various hiking trails, remote beaches, and picturesque villages can be reached by driving through the narrow serpentine streets. The Anaga Rural Park is free to access and it is a very large area, best to start your visit at Cruz del Carmen Visitor Center where there are rangers, maps, refreshments, and restrooms.
The Views
You don’t need to be a hiker to enjoy this place of epic beauty, if you are willing to tackle the intimidating road system – which can be unnervingly narrow and perilous. Risk will lead to reward opening up some of the most incredible panoramas right on the side of the road. Serious itinerants can plot famous miradors for their trip, but know that pull offs are well maintained and frequent easily promising great views during any visit.
The Hikes
+Sendero de los Sentidos begins from the visitor center and gives an introductory walk around a laurel forest, beckoning hikers to use their senses. There are three tracks to pick from which vary in length, track one is special in the fact that it is designated for people who have mobility issues.
+El Pijaral is a hike in a protected area of the park rife with endangered endemic species, which requires a free permit, available online. Only 45 people are allowed on the path a day and permit spaces can fill up months in advance, so a bit of planning is required for this one. Be sure to have your permit in hand or on your phone, those walking the trail without one may be issued a hefty fine. The trailhead is located along TF-123 4KM from the Montes de Anaga Hostel. If you have cell service, you can use Bosque Encantado (La Ensillada) in GoogleMaps. The trail itself is 4.3 mile loop with light rolling hills. The path is not marked, but there is no way to get lost because there are no spurs. Traverse through the thick and mystical reaching branches of the laurel trees, enjoying the flora is the highlight of this trail.
Intermittently an outcrop will appear through the crowded woods revealing a taste of a pristine view.
Upon descending a set of stairs and out into the sunlight hikers are treated to the main viewpoint, only green and blue spanning forever over the rugged landscape.
At just over the half way point of the hike and equipped with benches, this is the perfect spot to take a picnic lunch. Here the knowing and endemic Palman chaffinch hung around looking for leftovers, made for great company.
From this point follow the one sign along the route pointing towards your return. The trail is quiet and more flat than the previous portion, with an interesting cave cut out from stone.
+Mirador Aguaide is located in Chinamada, the serene village at the end point of a wild winding road.
A short and lovely trail from town, just three quarters of a mile roundtrip, leads to a mind blowing vista.
A viewing platform showcases a mountain ridge so sharp that seems to be cut with a knife, its colors bursting with the afternoon light.
It is a fall drop down to the sea below, do tread with caution and stay within the permitted boundaries.
With few others frequenting this area, it is exceedingly charming. If you want to extend your time here, consider at meal at Restaurante La Cueva.
The Beaches
From high up in the mountains you will find hairpin curves that zigzag down to the shores. The beaches of the northern side of the peninsula can only be reached by driving through the elevation of Anaga, while the southern beaches can be accessed easily along the coast just past Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
+Taganana is an idyllic and isolated village that has only been connected by road to the rest of the island in recent decades. It is the gateway to the beaches along the northern shore of Anaga. Multiple coves appear along the coastal road, Playa de Almaciga is a small black sand beach best frequented at low tide.
Waves are rough here. Stop by Roque de Las Bodegas (Wineries Rock) for a stroll to the rock that sticks out into the sea, where the wine from Taganana was made in the 17th century and shipped off to England.
+Playa de Las Teresitas is located on the southern shores of the Anaga Peninsula, and can be visited with ease any day of your trip situated closely to the capital.
This popular beach has a large free parking lot and amenities such as restaurants and lounge chairs for rent.
Its scenery is top notch with lush green mountains as a backdrop, its sand is soft and golden. On the rocks closest to the city there are many painted portraits of famous Spaniards.
Have you been to Anaga? What were your favorite spots?
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