Driving through Betancuria’s snaking mountain roads, I noticed the town of Vega de Río Palmas from above for its river of green, so uncharacteristic in Fuerteventura.
Winding down into a small village, park at the trailhead of Presa de las Peñitas for a truly distinct hike on this desert island.
Just under two miles roundtrip, with very little elevation gain – this is a hike that anyone can enjoy beginning in the tall grass which makes a wonderful melody, swaying in the gentle breeze.
The trail begins to follow a dry riverbed with offshoots that always seem to rejoin it. Taking one of these smaller trails I noticed an old well.
Peeking inside I wondered is it still in use? It is amazing to find water in the desert.
Real green is such a welcome sight. A cluster of tall palms give the atmosphere of an oasis.
Of course this vital source of life would beckon many creatures into the area. The most vibrant dragonfly I’ve ever seen sat steadily near a stream.
This trail is especially recommended for birders. Up above there were Canary Island buzzards and Egyptian vultures. Kestrels perched from a vantage point in the palms, looking for a meal.
A laughing dove native to Africa sat next to its neighbor, the trade wind blows over interesting birds all of the time.
Before I knew it, I was entering the area that I’d seen from before – the thick grove of trees with Pico de la Muda prominent in the backdrop.
Leaving the riverbed, the path began to narrow and ran beside a flat plane with a muddy appearance.
This was the top of Las Peñitas Dam, built in 1939 after the Spanish Civil War.
Once used to irrigate crops, today it is full of salt and sediments that have come with the years, it barely collects any water.
From here you descend into a truly magnificent ravine unlike anything on the island, called Mal Paso.
It’s deep smooth walls are made up of plutonic rock, its polished base is pocked with giant kettles.
Shade is such a rarity here, it is a dreamy picnic spot – or just a place to lay and watch the world around you. An egret hunts for a meal.
Ruddy shell ducks forage in their secretive manner, only wishing to be viewed from a distance.
Into the ravine you will spy the hermitage of Las Peñitas also referred to as Malpaso.
Legend has it that the Norman conqueror Jean Bethencourt brought a symbol which would become the Shrine of Our Lady of La Peña and on the third Saturday of September there is a pilgrimage to this site.
For a longer walk, the Camino Natural de Fuerteventura stretches all the way out to Ajuy. 5.4 miles one way.
Good to know:
+Parking is free
+There are no facilities