Clamber through a cave, cross a river on a log, and climb up ropes into Iceland’s deepest canyon to get a glimpse of Glymur. Until 2011, this post would have been titled Hike to the Tallest Waterfall in Iceland. Since then, scientists have discovered there is a taller waterfall in the Vatnajökull glacier, named Morsárjökull with a drop of 748 feet. The hike to see the (second) tallest waterfall in Iceland, which drops 649’, is an entirely majestic adventure and although it doesn’t hold the number one spot any longer, it should still be at the top of your hiking bucket list in the country.
I love that this is a challenging hike, far different than the dozens of walk up waterfalls rife with tourists. This was the very first hike we took in the country and remained our favorite the whole trip through.
You will need your own car to get to the trailhead, an hour from Reykjavík, or to join an organized tour. Driving is lovely through the Botnsdalur valley, the town of Hvalfjörður (translating to whale fjord) is very quiet since the construction of a tunnel that left the area off of the Ring Road. The last portion of the road is gravel, easily manageable for any 2WD car. Getting there early will make all the different in your experience, we arrived at 8AM and just a handful of cars were in the lot…when we returned three hours later finish our hike it was jam packed.
If you choose to create a loop out of this hike, which includes two river crossings, it will be 3.8 miles gaining 1,210 feet in elevation – highly recommend this route because the descent is much easier, plus the added bonus change of scenery. At the start a trail map with notes and tips sits beside a gate, head through to begin your journey following sporadic yellow markers.
In early September lupines were still blooming, both fuzzy pods
and full on blossoms.
Many other wildflowers dotted the paths, this land is rich in biodiversity.
It isn’t long until you reach the doorway to Glymur, Pvottahellir Cave. Briefly head into the dark and down the rocky trail.
The cave has two possible exits, head towards the left following the path.
Already, the views are tremendous and the trail is exhilarating.
After climbing down the stairs take a glance behind you, the trip has just begun.
Head out beside the glorious rushing Botnsá River.
You may be admiring it one moment and cursing it the next. You must cross the river to continue on and see the waterfall, only visible from the eastern rim. From spring to autumn there is a log in place for a portion of the crossing, and a cable to hold on to. In early September the river was flowing fairly strong making the crossing a bit slippery.
I was able to manage hopping the rocks and flipping under the cable to walk over the log without soaking my boots successfully completing the first river crossing. Good balance is necessary. By late September of 2018 the log was already removed. The next test is to climb up the steep path holding on to the ropes in place, this is where a good set of hiking boots comes in handy, as the trail can be muddy and slippery.
After climbing up a good distance the view out into the valley is simply stunning, showing how far you have come.
Soon you will catch your first gander at Glymur and its neighboring falls simultaneously plunging into a narrow gorge covered in deep green moss.
It is incredible. Flying about in a prehistoric setting are dozens of fulmar, a common seabird in Iceland. When threatened, the bird emits a foul smelling bile on its opponent.
As you continue to climb the view changes and the waterfall comes closer into sight. At long last you reach an optimal viewing spot, though it is difficult to get the lengthy drop of such a tall waterfall in one frame at this close range.
Keep ascending beyond the top of the falls, Glymur looks good at every angle.
View the water taking its course deepening the canyon through the narrow passage, and continue on.
Once past the grand waterfall, the landscape changes to a plain plateau.
It is here where you will have to find a proper place to ford the river. Make sure you are far enough from the drop, find a shallow area, and do your best to step on smaller rocks rather than large flat ones to get a better grip. We came prepared with water socks and hiking sandals to change into, putting our boots in a backpack. Be cautious on this section of the hike. One couple turned back, fearing their expensive camera gear would be ruined. Another couple attempted at a spot where the water was moving too quickly and fell in. The most shallow spot we could find was up to our knees at times, the water brisk, but ultimately manageable. Upon successfully crossing, we toweled off our feet, strapped our boots back on, and continued. The hard part of the hike is over at this point. Viewing the top of the falls from the other rim gives a whole new perspective.
A smaller waterfall on top of Glymur appears form this vantage point.
Cross a few tiny creeks, easily hopping from stone to stone. As clouds shift glaciers become visible.
The level path on this side of the river is a relief well earned. Signage is limited, but existent, and the path is clear enough.
Gradually descend the mountain with a pleasant view of the valley and back into the parking area after an epic hike. In Iceland there is always a folk tale to read about, The Tale of Raudhofdi explains how Glymur got its name:
According to legend, a fairy who changed a man that betrayed her into a whale called Raudhofdi. The whale started destroying boats in the fjord and killed the two sons of a priest. The priest was old and blind at the time, his daughter led him to the seashore and put his walking stick in the water. The whale came swimming up and the priest led it up the river. When it reached the canyon, under the waterfall, the narrow passage of the earth trembled and clanged. Glymur means clang in English. The whale ended up in the lake and exploded from exhaustion.