If you’ve been around Reykjavík, it’s likely you are already acquainted with the Esjan Mountain Range, likely without even knowing it. Just across Faxafloi Bay the imposing flat topped mountains loom, setting the scene for a great picture of Sun Voyager and many other perfect postcards. The most popular hiking destination along the range is Mt. Esja, a quick and easy drive just outside the capital city, also accessible by bus. Named for a notorious witch who used to live on a farm near the nearby, hikers should always be prepared when tackling this wicked climb. Weather can change on the drop of a dime, avalanches can occur, and people need to know their personal limitations. This mountain holds the record for most accidents in the country, be prepared, know the weather, and don’t be a statistic. That being said, this is a very doable hike and one of the most beautiful in the country. On a blue sunny day we parked next to the restaurant which shares a parking lot with the trailhead.
Walk to the left of the building and look for the painted wooden post to begin your ascent.
A map shows the various paths in the preserve, there are multiple ways to get up to Esja, beyond, and through the woods.
Almost immediately a lively waterfall appears, setting the tone for this stunning hike.
Scenery is constantly striking along the trail, initially following a meandering creek.
When you have hiked just about a mile, the trail will split. Both lead to Esja, the unmarked left is much steeper, while the right is still steep, but more mild. If you take the path to the right you will notice there are signs marking your progress and indicating the level of experience needed to proceed.
While not in English, you can get a sense from the boots of how difficult the next section will be. One boot is easy, three boots means challenging. A bridge makes crossing the river as simple as pie.
Gaining a solid amount of elevation with each mile, soon we were venturing into the clouds.
Eventually the plateau came into view and it was clear how much longer it would be to summit.
Steinn, translating to rock in English, is 1.7 miles and over 2,200’ from the starting point and the place where most people turn around.
An utterly gorgeous and challenging hike in its own right with magnificent views.
If you decide to continue, note that the trail becomes much steeper, more slippery, and dangerous.
Notice how the flora changes at this elevation, in autumn the brightest and most attractive colors were present.
The most popular trail leads to Þverfellshorn, at 2,560 feet with tremendous views.
To get there the trail is extremely sheer and there is some light scrambling. Views into the capital and beyond are extraordinary, especially on a clear day.
To get to the highest point in the range called Hábunga, it is an additional 2½ mile trek gaining another 650’+ of elevation. Hiking back down, the vistas continue to dazzle, bits of glacier even appeared when the clouds shifted.
Hikers visiting Reykjavík should put Esja at the top of their list for a outstanding mountain climb.