Icebergs the size of houses weighing 2,000 tons came flooding through melted by the eruption of Vatnajökull volcano in 1996.
The combination of volcanic heat and massive glacial flooding caused immense destruction and the elimination of Skeiðará Bridge, all but some twisted girders. Today the twisted metal covered in graffiti makes up a monument to the event, a testament to the undeniable power of nature.
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The bridge was located in on the Southern Coast along the largest expanse of glacial sand in the country, right on the Ring Road. Iceland’s Route One is the main route of transportation, if a portion of it is destroyed that means everyone would have to travel the other way. Shockingly, no one was harmed in this catastrophic event thanks to scientists who monitored the situation. In the distance on a clear day two glaciers: Skeiðarárjökull and Svinafellsjökull are visible.
The site is a rest area with no facilities, an interesting place to picnic and stretch your legs.
Fun Fact: When the bridge was built in 1974, it was the longest in the country at 2,890 feet.
There are no roads going through Skaftafell National Park, to see its magnificent sights you’ll have to hike in. Created in 1967, the park was incorporated into a larger preserve in 2008 called Vatnajokull National Park – the second largest national park in Europe.
There is a lot to see and do. Encompassing the highest mountain in Iceland Hvannadalshnjúkur at 6,923′ feet and its highest volcano Öraefajökull at 6,921′, you will be surrounded by giants. For this reason, the park has a relatively mild climate compared to the rest of the Southern Coast. It is a protected valley and is even home to a rare and verdant forest. Skaftafell is a land of contrast filled with waterfalls, glaciers, forests, volcanoes, and peaks for hikers to see in a patchwork of wonder.
Parking
This is one of the few hiking preserves that charges for parking, currently the rates are $6 USD, payable by credit card. There are cameras that record your license plate, so no shirking. If you are on a budget, you can park on a gravel pull out prior to the sign and hike in.
Visitor Center
Skaftafell Visitor Center is open year round and there is a lot to learn about geology, wildlife, and history of the region.
Learn the story of two students who were conducting measurements high up on a glacier in 1953, when a storm rolled in. Rescue teams were sent in to find them, unsuccessfully. In 2006 their equipment was discovered, yet no human remains accompanied it.
The young men had conducted much research on glaciers and climate change, they were very respected scientists in the field. You can find a café, free restrooms, water station, and maps for your day in the park.
Hiking
Depending on how long you’d like to hike or what you want to see, there are many trails in the park system with ranging mileage and difficulty – well marked and easy to understand if you have a map.
Svartifoss Waterfall: From the visitor center the trail to the famous falls it is 2.5 miles gaining 584 feet of elevation, and it is possible to make a loop. Along the way you will pass another waterfall, Hundafoss, which makes a great appetizer.
The path is very well groomed and there is a wooden platform to view the falls from. Translating to Black Falls, this cascade drops 65 feet in a free fall down the edge of a remarkable cliff – made of hexagonal black basalt lava.
S6 Loop Svartifoss/Sjónarnípa: If you wish to continue pass the falls, you can create a 4.5 mile loop and reach a mind-blowing viewpoint of the Skaftafellsjökull Glacier. Along the way you will cross rivers.
Discover additional beautiful waterfalls in the river of the plateau.
And admire the scenery. Skaftafell is protected from sheep, and since they have stopped grazing on the land the arctic vegetation has bloomed.
Upon reaching the most prominent vista, the reward is utterly unbelievable.
To see this glacier, a mighty natural sight stretching from high up in the mountains to its terminus in a lagoon was breathtaking, and to have it all to ourselves in the early morning made even more special.
The valley was washed in grey on an ominous day, but the weather held out.
A network of rivers scrambled in the distance, smoothed flat from the ancient path of the glacier.
Vistas were steadily incredible as the loop descended beside the glacier, before heading into the woods. Pleasant and green, this change of scenery was welcome. We were lucky enough to encounter a common snipe and finally snap a picture of one (after seeing many elusive others) before making it back to the visitor center.
Skaftafellsjökull Glacier:
To get up close and personal with a glacier, there is a flat and easy 2.3 mile roundtrip hike to reach the tip of the tongue.
When you cross from the direct gravel path on the glacial sand, you choose your route and can explore the beach at different angles.
It is instantly colder this close to the jagged beast, and endlessly inspiring.
Guided tours
Those looking to take guided glacier hikes and ice cave tours can book within the park.
Accommodations
Campsites are available, but note that it is difficult to pitch a tent in the unusually hard earth.
Fun Fact: Films such as Interstellar, Batman Begins, and James Bond’s A View to a Kill were shot in the park.
I hate to start this off as a comparison, but two glacial lagoons on the Southern Coast of Iceland just six miles apart from one another is asking for distinguishing qualities. Everyone is going to visit Jökulsárlón, one of the most famous sights in the whole country. Rightly so, it is absolutely incredible. However, Fjallsarlon is a hidden gem – perfect for those looking to get away from the crowds.
First of all, while it’s close to the highway it’s not visible from the Ring Road. Second of all, there is a short walk from the parking lot to get there.
This equation means you’ll have to be looking for the place and want to put in effort to get there, so we shared this majestic lake with just a handful of people…while at the more famous lagoon we were in a sea of tourists.
Icebergs here calve off of a different glacier, named Vatnajökull.
The lake is smaller so your view is a lot closer the glacial tongue creating an exotic backdrop.
On site you will find restroom, café, and boat tours are offered. When we left as dusk was approaching an arctic fox darted right across the road!
I was so happy to have taken the time to see a second glacial lagoon, each was a uniquely beautiful experience.
Diamonds aren’t forever. Well, not on Diamond Beach in Iceland’s Southern Coast at least!
When the icebergs from Jökulsárlón Lagoon across the street float their way under the bridge crossing beneath the Ring Road, they are home free into the Atlantic Ocean. There they toss and they turn in the waves, bobbing about, until polished and ushered onto the black sand to melt away.
Before they’re gone forever from solidity, the last stance of this thousand year old ice is to glimmer in the sunlight like the worlds most precious stone against a black sand beach. Each hunk of ice is a unique design, some translucent and others opaque.
Some are totally white and others have a deeper blue hue. Walk up and down the shore to discover every treasure, what has washed up will be different day by day.
Good to know:
+This site is easily accessible with a free parking lot located next to the beach
Reaching the Southern Iceland was like breaking ground on a whole new world, one filled with icy excitement.
Without a doubt, Jökulsárlón is the crown jewel of the region and may very well be Iceland’s top bucket list destination.
Translating to glacial river lagoon, this place of raw beauty is located right on the Ring Road just steps away from the free parking lot.
The lagoon was formed as recently as the 1930s after warmer temperatures in the 1920s caused Breiðamerkurjökull glacier to rapidly retreat. Since the 1970s the lagoon has quadrupled in size, it is the deepest lake in the country with a depth of 814 feet. Blocks of ice one thousand years old and one hundred feet tall calve from the edge of the glacier, swirling around the surface.
Each of these natural sculptures are completely unique, varying in design and color.
Bluer icebergs are older, made of heavily compacted ice and a large concentration of microorganisms.
Some are so deeply colorful they look electrified, and are dubbed ‘blue diamonds.’ Younger icebergs are whiter, both can be streaked in dark ash from volcanic eruptions.
Wildlife flock to the scene and seals can be seen hunting and playing amongst the ice, even lying on it.
Birds are plentiful looking for fish to catch and resting atop the icebergs, often nesting nearby on the shore.
Sometimes a brick of ice gently makes its way to shore to melt after a millennium of solidity.
I had to pick up this piece of history, but boy did it freeze my hands!
To get a different perspective and potentially away from the crowds, there are three additional interconnected viewpoints on the other side of the lagoon.
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If you want a more intimate experience, many boat tours depart from the shore to get a closer look of the icebergs.
Fun Facts: Many movies have used the lagoon as a film location including Die Another Day, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and Batman Begins. Iceland has a postage stamp of Jökulsárlón.
What to do with old plinths? Remnants from an old port were just sitting in the village of Djupivogur, looking shabby until artist Sigurður Guðmundsson was asked to do something about it. The sorry slabs were transformed into a 656 foot long sculpture series calledEggin í Gleðivík.
The name of the enormous outdoor art work translates to the Eggs at Merry Bay, and they represent the birds that would sit right in the water beside them.
There are 34 eggs in total, each is a precise large scale replica of the actual thing. Walking down the line observing each, you will notice each has a slightly different shape and color. Every egg includes its Latin and Icelandic name for you to better identify them if you come a cross this particular egg in the wild. The best time of the year for birding in Iceland is June-August.
You may notice that there is one egg that is different from the rest. Lómur, or the red-throated diver, is the official bird of Djúpivogur and this egg is made to be humungous in its honor.
All of the eggs are carved from Chinese granite, the artist lives in China for part of the year and for the other part, in Eastern Iceland right near this sculpture in town. The eggs have become a symbol of Djúpivogur, a draw for people to come and visit. If you go shopping around you can find tiny versions of the eggs to bring back home as a gift for your favorite bird watcher or omelette eater.
If you’re driving around Iceland’s Ring Road, there are certainly some long stretches between A and B. While the landscape is almost always enchanting, sometimes it’s worth it to take a shortcut. In Eastern Iceland there is a pass which shaves off over an hour and almost 40 miles, it is the gravel track mountain road Öxi, meaning Axe, numbered Road 939. This isn’t just a shortcut, but an entire adventure. Öxi has a grade of 17%, so it is very steep and exhilarating. Driving a 2WD Toyota Yaris, I was more than thankful to be driving down the hill than up, as this trip was done going around the country clockwise. On a clear day the views along this road are impeccable, lush green Jurassic like cliffs teeming with waterfalls of the Berufjarðará River. There were so many jaw dropping sights along the way, but I couldn’t bare to drive past Folaldafoss, the gorgeous waterfall seen right from the road.
The parking was easy and it was good to take a break from the intensity of the drive. The view right from the pull off was fantastic, but noticing a short herd path I couldn’t help but hop the rocks over the stream to get a closer look. Be cautious as the trail is rocky and muddy in some spots, running right next to the river.
A small cascade of five feet was flowing strong as we drew closer to the falls.
The waterfall passes through a gap and crashes 54 feet in a remarkably turquoise pool.
Watching the water continue its course into the valley, with no one else around is entirely meditative.
After no more than fifteen minutes of hiking, return with a new sense of elation from this hidden gem. In the picnic area there is a monument to the man we have to thank for this road, Hjálmar Guðmundsson.
A local resident of the nearby town Berufirði, he had a great incentive to build this road and save time!
Good to know:
+This road is regularly gated and closed by snowfall
With so much to do and see on a busy road trip around Iceland, slowing down for an indulgent midday meal feels opulent. Café Klausturkaffi is very much in the middle of nowhere so it is surprising that such a fabulous option is available.
In the summer a lunch buffet of local Icelandic cuisine is offered for $30. The atmosphere couldn’t possibly be more idyllic, located in the famous European author Gunnar Gunnarsson’s mansion.
A gorgeous spread of offerings start with homemade soups, on the day we dined there was a cream of mushroom and a cauliflower chowder.
Paired with several options of home-baked bread to clean your bowl with or to douse with Icelandic butter.
Try some of the spread which are made in house, such as the bright and unique angelica rhubarb jam or the Sorrel pesto.
This is a country who dines heavily on protein, my husband loved trying the reindeer meatballs and lamb, we both savored the endlessly tender chicken and curried fish. Vegetarians will be happy to know there are so many options for them as well. Fresh crisp vegetables, home made hummus, and a variety of salads were very welcome as they aren’t presented frequently in Iceland. After all of that food, you’ll have to create room for coffee/tea and dessert.
The currant pie with a whopping dollop of clotted cream was heavenly, the gingerbread snap cookies were nostalgic. Klausturkaffi has souvenirs options such as bramble-berry jam and dandelion syrup if you want to create your own recipes at home, or share this experience with someone else. Other rooms in the home house Gunnarsson’s books and artifacts, along with art exhibits. You might find some more information on the wyrm monster named Lagarfljotsormur that lives in the nearby lake.
Visitors to the restaurant can walk to the ruins of a monastery from the 1500s.
Hengifoss is the third highest waterfall in Iceland and the most popular natural attraction in Eastern Iceland.
It is my personal favorite waterfall in the country, there is a riveting three mile roundtrip hike gaining 1,300 feet to reach the falls. To begin the head through the gate meant to keep the livestock out of the road and up the stairs.
A river runs through the deep Hengifossárgljúfur Gorge, its source is our destination, peaking out in the distance.
There are benches along the way for those who are looking to rest and admire the scenery, and plenty of exciting elements that heighten the journey.
Before you reach the main waterfall, there is another named Litlanesfoss, or the Basalt Column Falls.
It is so stunning that it would be worthy of its own hike, yet we are lucky enough to grab a two for one deal. Plunging down a narrow gorge this waterfall is 100 feet tall with a two step cascade. Its hexagonal basalt columns are some of the highest in the country, up to 65 feet. Other small waterfalls are present and distract from the elevation gain.
When you reach the curious collapsed sandstone you are almost at the end point.
Hengifoss, or the Hanging Falls, drops 420 feet from a plateau and what makes it so interesting is its geological feature dubbed the red strata.
Formed from volcanic ash during the warm damp climate of the Tertiary Period six million years ago, clay and iron compounds formed within the soil. When an additional layer of lava flowed over this acidic soil, a reaction occurred between the iron and oxygen creating a reddish color.
With the sun hitting the water, a magical rainbow emerged in its mist. If the river is running low it is possible to go behind the waterfall and into the hollowed out rock cave. The water makes its way out into one of Iceland’s deepest lakes, Lagarfljot, which you can admire on you walk down.
Within the lake is the ancient and mysterious wyrm monster named Lagarfljotsormur. It was first seen in 1345 and there have been many reports since then, so keep a look out.
Upon completing the hike, remember to shut the gate behind you.
Iceland was once a land covered in lush woodlands, but in today’s mostly tree-less scene you would never guess that. This distinct lack of thicket is due to early settlers overusing resources and massive volcanic eruptions. The reforestation service is working to change this matter as visitors can see in the country’s largest forest, and first national forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur.
Quiet and widely unvisited by tourists, there are over 20 miles of trails to explore filled with natural birch groves and wildlife. One pleasant hike is the three mile blue blazed loop located next to the old home economics school.
Filled with new growth, the trail mildly winds up a hill on a wide gravel track.
Along the way beneath the trees the land was dotted with vibrant autumn wildflowers.
Bright red berries were growing out of the swampy soil near Hólatjörn Pond.
The forest provides refuge to many of the birds, but not all of them can escape ill fate of this common snipe.
Once at the summit of the path there is a spot to picnic and a magnificent view out to Lagarfljót Lake.
Another great walk, which just takes a few minutes, begins down the road by the high rise bridge over the river.
You may be drawn to stop here because of the pull off with the impeccable view.
However, few people know that there is a hidden gem that lies right beneath this very bridge. From either side of the road, head down the unmarked herd path in the direction towards the structure. Before long it will lead you to an incredible sight: the Klifá stone arch.
This natural stone formation with a river running under it is a little known treasure of the area. Continue around the trail and you will pop out on the opposite side of the road from which you started, completing a loop that takes no more than five minutes. Other places to enjoy in Hallormsstaðaskógur include the parks arboretum, Ljósárfoss waterfall, and multiple campsites. If visiting in June, plan your trip to coincide with Skógardagurinn, or Forest Day: a weekend of accordion music, logging competitions, and local farm food.