Most of my trip around Iceland was meticulously planned out, as is most of my travel in general. So as I was driving in Southern Iceland from Point A (Skogafoss) to Point B (Seljavallalaug Pool) I was excited to stumble upon a surprise in the middle of the route: the Turf Houses of Drangurinn.
Turf houses aren’t unique to Iceland, but the fact that both rich and poor lived in them is unlike how they were used elsewhere. Residing in this kind of domicile was essential due to the fierce elements and limited resources of the country, along with frequent earthquakes.
It is possible to carefully enter some of the abandoned homes here, and while they aren’t in the greatest condition you can imagine what it would be like to live inside.
First you may notice that they are indeed lower than the ground, about a foot and a half underground because the earth doesn’t freeze that far down. The walls have layered bricks and some rare wood, likely sourced from driftwood, for support. Generally a turf farm would have multiple buildings connected by corridors, and there are many to find surrounding the large rock standing isolated at the base of the Eyjafjöll Mountains.
This rock has a tale of its own in which Grettir Ásmundsson, a strongman, displayed his power by grabbing the boulder right off of the cliff! It’s a delight to spot turf houses all over the country, and especially wonderful to be able to explore them up close and personal.
Fresh fish and chips nestled between two epic waterfalls, what could be a better day? When in Southern Iceland a visit to the mighty Skogafoss waterfall is a must, Kvernufoss is for those in the know, and Mia’s Country Van is the most delicious thing to fuel the adventure!
Somehow, you can easily miss the small polka-dotted food truck with its two picnic tables and many people rushing to the falls do, but that would be a shame! So on a beautiful Icelandic day bundle up and eat al fresco with a view.
There is only one menu item here, and that ensures that it is absolutely perfect. The fish is as fresh as can be sourced locally usually cod is offered, but at times there might be wolfish or haddock.
The crispy batter is made with handcrafted Icelandic ale from the Ölvisholt Brewery, and there are many different types of salt to sprinkle on top to make the flavor pop. A generous portion of thick wedge chips melt right in your mouth and fill you up.
You get a choice of sauce, homemade Icelandic tartar, sweet chilli or ketchup. Your meal is cooked fresh to order by a friendly and smiling Mia, and takes roughly ten minutes, priced 2000 KR which converts to $17 USD – a steal in Iceland!
Iceland’s beauty is also its curse, attracting a rampant number of tourists a year. It can sometimes be hard to enjoy the nature that this country has to offer with so many people around! So when you stumble on a hidden gem, it makes the experience all the more special.Kvernufoss Waterfall is still secreted away, even though it is just a stones throw from the wildly popular Skogafoss Waterfall in Southern Iceland. I visited in the middle of a sunshiny September day and had the place blissfully all to myself. So if you’d like to lose the crowds and discover a gorgeous waterfall, make your way to the end of the road past the Skogar Museum where you will find no signage, but a gravel lot beside a warehouse.
The area doesn’t look like much, but that’s great because we don’t want everyone to find out about this place. Follow the fence towards the mountains and find a collection of rusted farm equipment, along with a perfect little ladder to hop on over.
We passed just a handful people heading back from the falls who were glowing with happiness. The walk is no longer than 20 minutes and easy, just .4 of a mile with few spots that are slippery and little elevation. Just head along the faint dirt path staying towards the left until you reach the Kverna River where you head upstream.
In no time the waterfall appeared peeking out of the Kvernugil Gorge, piquing my excitement.
When it fully revealed itself I couldn’t believe my eyes! This 98 foot beauty had a dazzling rainbow and a trail of mist.
Perhaps the most incredible element of all is the fact that you can walk behind the falls, but don’t forget to wear a rain jacket or you’ll get soaked!
Hearing the power of this waterfall in otherwise silence is a meditative event.
Trace the outline of the gorge and imagine the erosion process over thousands of years.
Less than a mile round trip to see this wonder, a favorite little memory in a country filled with amazing sights.
Iceland’s third tallest waterfall, Skogafoss is a 197 feet high by 82 feet wide curtain of powerful perfection.
It is easily visible driving the Ring Road in Southern Iceland and a super accessible parking lot makes viewing a cinch.
So renowned this waterfall even comes with its own legend. In the year 900 a giant named Þrasi hid a chest filled with treasure in a cave behind the falls. In the nearby Skogar Folk Museum there is a gold ring on display that is said to be from that very chest! For those that will go searching for riches, be warned that walking up to the falls means you’re bound to get drenched! The large volume of mist often results in rainbows on a sunny day. Five hundred and twenty seven steps lead up to the top of the waterfall on its eastern side to a viewing platform.
Up here there is a chance to lose the crowds and find dozens of additional waterfalls further up the Skoga River.
The bright bubbling white water coupled with the emerald moss on a sunny day made this a sublime experience.
Fishermen are often found along the shores of the river in the summer because it has a large char and salmon population.
The trail stretches fourteen miles between glaciers all the way to the highlands and Þórsmörk, where overnight camping is available.
So you can hike until your hearts content.
Good to know:
+Parking is free
+Restrooms charge a fee
+There is a campsite available
Fun fact:
Skogafoss was used in the movie Thor: The Dark World, a Justin Bieber song, and in the History Channel series Vikings
On the southernmost part of mainland Iceland is door in the hole island, more commonly referred to as Dyrhólaey Arch.
Standing almost 400 feet tall, a daredevil pilot flew right through the center of the archway!
Exciting and beautiful, this is a popular stop while traveling through Southern Iceland, just down the road from the famous Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach which can be seen in the distance.
When you reach the preserve there are two options for parking. The high road is more commonly used by 4WD vehicles, but it can be hiked to from the lower parking lot in approximately 30 minutes. Up top there are dramatic views of the arch and a lighthouse which was built in 1927 called Dyrhólaeyjarviti – which doubles as a hotel.
In the late spring and summer there may be limited access due to the nesting season of shorebirds such as puffins. The lower section of the park has its own charms, including a fantastic view of Arnardrangur, known as Eagle rock on account of the historic pair of eagles which nested here in the 1850s
A different view of the arch and rock stacks are seen from this perspective.
You’ll find a another arch down here, comprised of jagged basalt rock, which can be seen up close and personal.
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Heading back to the parking lot was a piece of corroded equipment of unknown utility.
Always infamous in its beauty and sometimes fatal with its attraction, tourists flock to the town of Vik in Southern Iceland and visit Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. Of all the black sand beaches in the country, this is the most popular and it is extremely accessible. Named for a Viking from Norway who was the first settler in the area, Reynir, the word fjara means beach, therefore this is Reynir’s Beach.
One of the top ten non-tropical beaches in the world, the strange and astounding sights along the coast are one of a kind. The beach was formed by an eruption of the Katla volcano whose lava flowed to the sea and upon reaching the icy waters instantly cooled in the most mesmerizing fashion, forming basalt columnar joints.
These hexagonal wonders are so perfect they look manmade, but are totally natural and rise up to over a massive 65 feet!
The columns form the base of 1115′ foot Reynisfjall, which means Reynir’s mountain.
In the summer you can find puffins nesting on many of the perfect platforms, as people often climb upon these cliffs be particularly careful at this time of year if you partake in such acts.
Instantly you’ll notice the first cave carved into the mountain, but if the tide is low you can walk a short distance on the beach and find a second basalt cave called Hálsanefshellir which comes with a tale about seal skins.
The story goes that a man heard festive sounds inside the cave and outside there were many seal skins. He took one and brought it home, locking it away in a chest. A few days later back at the cave there was a beautiful woman, naked and crying – it was the seal who’s skin he took. He gave her clothes, comforted her, soon they married and had children. She always longed for the sea and he always kept the key to the chest with him. Years had gone by and one day the man forgot to bring the key when he went out fishing. When he returned home the chest was empty and his wife was gone! In the days after the man would go fishing and a seal would circle his boat with tears in its eyes, he always caught many fish.
Walking further down the beach you will near the prominent towering basalt stacks standing over 216′ feet tall which are known as Reynisdrangar, Reynir’s pillars, which have a myth of their own.
Long ago the rocks were actually sea trolls and they were so intent on hauling a ship to shore they didn’t notice the time. Trolls are active at night, because they become petrified by the light of day. As dawn broke and the greedy trolls were still toiling, the ship was suddenly freed as the first rays of light turned its antagonists to stone.
Today they are home to many shorebirds, including puffins. If the tide is with you, it is possible to walk even further out to Arnardrangur, known as Eagle Rock, named historically for the pair of eagles who nested there in 1850. Heading in the other direction is another geological oddity, Dyrhólaey which can be made into a hike all of its own by driving down the road.
Danger factor:
Heed the caution of the signs posted on this beach and stay a safe distance from the water. There is nothing blocking this beach from Antarctica and rogue waves are fairly common – referred to as sneaker waves. They can come out of nowhere even on a calm day and when you end up in this freezing ocean with its strong current, you may not make it out alive. Too many deaths occur at this popular beach because people unwittingly want to take selfies in the waves. We stayed at a guesthouse in town and our host told us her own tale. Just last year a man was climbing the basalt columns while his wife and child stood there taking pictures of him, when a sneaker wave smashed against the cliff dragging him into sea. A tragic story, he never made it back to shore. The danger is real, so it is important to always be on alert and enjoy this must-see place safely.
Good to know:
+Free parking
+Restrooms charge a fee
+Extremely popular – arrive early to avoid crowds which start to build at sunrise
+A small restaurant is available on site
+Dress warm it is often windy
+Wear sturdy shoes, the beach is made up of different sized pebbles, not fine sand – so it is a bit more difficult to walk on
Fun fact: The beach has been a set for many shows and movies including Game of Thrones, Star Wars, and Star Trek.
All fairytales have are embedded with a dark element, this one is no different. Eldhraun Lava Field in Southern Iceland is one of the most beautiful places on earth.
The dark jagged rocks are majestically softened with a blanket of green, mostly woolly fringe moss, that can be more than 50 cm thick.
Eldhraun means fire lava and the enchanting, yet fragile moss takes decades to grow on top of it. Walking on top of it is strictly prohibited, so instead plug ‘Scenic green lava walk’ into GoogleMaps which is a short sanctioned walk through one of the most lovely sections of the lava field, right on the Ring Road.
The devious component is a historical one. Starting in 1783 and lasting for 8 months the Laki eruption, known as the Skafta River Fires bombarded Iceland creating the largest lava flow in the world at 565-square-kilometers! This event is hailed as the most poisonous eruption on record, though no one died directly from the flow. The effects of episode were dubbed the Mist Hardships, on account of the toxic mist that lingered in the air comprised of fluorine, sulphur compounds, and ash fall. A profound impact was felt in the country, where 1/5 of the population died along with half of the livestock. Nothing grew in the fields that year, no fish were found in the sea creating famine and disease. Iceland was a part of the Danish Kingdom during the time and ideas circulated about removing all settlement from the island to Jutland, Denmark. The consequences didn’t stop at the source, the noxious cloud was widespread and reached other areas in Europe resulting in tens of thousands more deaths. In Britain a haze blocked the sun and there was an extremely cold winter. In spring a massive thaw caused severe flooding in Germany. Continual crop failures caused famine that are said to have resulted in the French Revolution! Suffering wasn’t just found in Europe, the results of this volcanic explosion were felt all over the world. In 1784 North America was gripped by one of the coldest winters on record, where the Mississippi River froze in New Orleans. India saw drought due to weakened monsoons and famine hit Egypt killing 1/6 of its population. The Laki eruption rocked the world. The very same volcano brought flights all over Europe to a halt in 2010 during a more recent explosion, continuing to show Mother Natures prowess over mere mortals today. Respect nature and enjoy this stunning landscape.
Fun Fact: The Apollo 11 crew trained for their 1969 moon walk on this out of this world landscape.
This magical moss covered palace was certainly meant for the elves, but those visiting Southern Iceland are lucky enough to experience it. To break down the word Fjaðrárgljúfur, Fjaðrá is the glacial river running through the bottom of the Gljúfur, which means canyon.
The fantastic fissure is 330 feet deep and 1.2 miles long, and there is a path above it which runs the length and leads to a jaw dropping view.
The canyon is mainly composed of palagonite rock from the Ice Age, formed by glacial runoff. Spot a thick arch about midway through the walk.
At the end of the canyon a snazzy viewing platform has been installed, it leads to the most extraordinary vista.
In autumn an utterly enchanting emerald coating of thick moss towers over the river which runs from Geirlandshraun Mountain.
Bright white rushing water slips down the edge of the cliff and pours into a deep turquoise pool.
Three falls converge in a crevice, one is a vibrant shade of orange due to the presence of iron.
Out and back the hike is approximately 2 ½ miles upon completion, since it has become very popular early morning is recommended for a quieter atmosphere.
Note: It used to be possible to walk in the base of the canyon and wade through the river, but this is no longer an option.
Because of its massive popularity with people like Justin Bieber, who is shown off path and trampling the moss in the beginning of his music video, fences and restrictions have been put up to protect the land. Be respectful and stay on the path so that everyone can continue to enjoy the natural splendor for years to come.
Good to know:
+The large parking lot is located two miles off the ring road, and part of the drive is gravel manageable for any vehicle when driving slow.
This is a hike that exceeds expectations, a little known and under appreciated gem. In Southern IcelandSystrastapi, known as Sister’s Rock is paired with a legend. In the 14th century two nuns of the Benedictine convent were burnt at the stake, one for fornication & selling her soul to the Devil and the other for speaking blasphemously of the pope. It is said that their remains are buried on top of the rock, the destination of this walk. An easy 30-minute jaunt through a pastoral landscape is made even lovelier with no other tourists present.
Along the way there is an odd hoodoo formation jutting out of an otherwise normal cliff face.
A most wonderful and exciting element is certainly Rauðárfoss, a very unique waterfall.
The basalt column falls have a burnt orange backdrop due to the iron in the soil.You must cross the shallow water (not enough to get my boots wet) to continue along the trail.
From there it isn’t far to reach the rock with the sad and storied history.
For the daring and able, it is possible to climb up to top of the rock using a thin rope for a view and to discover the grave of the nuns.
They say that after the Reformation of 1550, the second nun was posthumous declared innocent and flowers grow on her plot, while the other sisters remains unfruitful. Whether you climb up or not, the valley is a stunning sight filled with grazing sheep.
During medieval times in 1186 there was a convent in the town Kirkjubæjarklaustur of Southern Iceland, and just behind it sits a waterfall which keeps its story alive. Systrafoss or the Sisters’ Falls was named in its honor, the word systur relates to the nuns who lived there.
It is easy to see the falls right from the road, but hiking the trails provides different perspectives.
At the base of the falls is the Fossá River which runs underneath Fossasteinn rock, cleaved from the mountain in 1830 during a thunderstorm.
It is possible to crawl underneath the boulder which created a cave like den.
A short climb on the red trail leads to a viewing platform of the waterfall, tumbling into the Fossárgil gorge two distinct streamers drop over massive snail like rock, Fossasteinn.
The height of the waterfall is 225 feet and its source is Systravatn Lake at the top of the mountain. You can continue hiking in the region within a forest which was planted in the 1940s, or to the interesting geological feature the Church Floor.
Sourced from Google Images
Note that in times of drought the waterfall may be missing all together! Back at the beginning of the hiking trail is an abandoned looking turf home, adding to the atmosphere.